Where the Earth is Still Being Born – Exploring the Hawaii Big Island by Car

For many, the islands of Hawaii are synonymous with a paradise getaway destination. An escapist dream, separated from the rest of the world.

Hawai'i - the Big Island, which gives the name to the entire archipelago, is more rugged and primordial, less developed and more laid back (if that is even possible). Here, Pele, the goddess of fire, lightning, and wind, escaped the rage of her sister Nāmaka, goddess of the seas, looking for refuge on the tall mountain of Mauna Loa. The everlasting conflict between the two siblings lasts to this day and lava flows from the Kilauea volcano meet the relentless crashing waves of the enraged sister.

The Big Island hosts incredibly diverse environments and landscapes. From the rugged and wild terrain of the volcano region to the lush tropical rainforests of the north and east to the warm beaches of the west. Getting a car and exploring the island was a constant discovery of small pockets of entire ecosystems, all packed on this volcano in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.

The fact that luaus, alohas, mahalos, and shakas have become common words is a testament to how much influence these small, secluded islands in the Pacific have had on our popular culture.

The archipelago comprises eight major islands and dozens of smaller ones. The most famous ones are Maui, O’ahu, Molokaʻi, Lānaʻi as well as Hawai’i itself – the Big Island.

Overview

At first, the concept of a road trip in Hawaii may seem strange and not many people visit these beautiful islands this way. In fact the vast majority of tourists visit other popular destination like O'ahu or Maui, relaxing in resorts.

The Big Island however is a treasure trove of wonderful sights. It offers arguably more relaxing and beach-oriented islands,

But having just been to Fiji, and done just that - relaxing by the beach, I was keen on exploring the next destination. So instead of staying on one of the smaller, I moved to the Big Island and rented a small car to explore the surroundings.

I split my stay between the rainforest-filled eastern side, in the town of Hilo, and the western town of Kailua Kona, driving a couple of hours each day from my small room to see the many wonders that the island has to offer.

See the Itinerary below for a detailed breakdown on every location

About

• Language: English is the official language and most commonly spoken.
• Population: 328+ million (2019)
• Timezone: [UTC -10, UTC -5]
• Ethnic Make-up: 
  • Hawaii: Pacific Islanders: (15%), Caucasian (31%), Asian (20%), Multiracial (29%). 
  • Mainland USA: White American (72.4%), African American (12.6%),  Native American (0.9%), Asian American (4.8%) (2010 Census)
• Religion: 70-78% Christian
• Political System: Constitution-based federal republic
• Currency: US Dollar (USD)
• Credit Cards: Almost anything can be paid with credit cards and ATMs are extremely common.
• Electricity: Socket Type A and B (“US” style..doh), 120±6 volt / 60 hertz.
• Tipping Customs: 15-20%
• Haggling Culture: Not common
  

Getting Around

Driving

First and foremost, the basics: driving is on the right side of the road and the imperial measurement system is used. As in other industrialized modern countries, the usual rules apply, such as pedestrians having the right of way, obeying speed limits, not driving under the influence, wearing mandatory seat belts, not using cell phones, etc.

As per common traffic rules with RHT, priority must be given to vehicles coming from the right, except on roundabouts which are anticlockwise, with way given to those already in the roundabout (so to the left).

An IDP is not required to drive in the US. That being said, a general rule is that the license must always use the characters that are used in the country, so in this case latin characters, and if your drivers license is written with Chinese, Arabic, Cyrillic, or others you will need to an IDP.

Despite the US having a low requirement for legal driving age, you generally need to be 21 years old to rent a car. Also if you are under 25, expect a "Young Driver" daily surcharge that can double the price of the rental.

While car insurance is not mandatory, it is highly recommended and you should always opt for "Loss Damage Waiver" (LDW) and "Supplemental Liability Insurance" (SLI) offered by the rental agencies. These are pricey but American medical and repair costs are astronomical so it's best not to skip these.

Speed Limits

In the US, speed limits are set by individual states, not the federal government. This means the rules can change the moment you cross an invisible line.

For the case of Hawaii specifically:

• The highest speed limit on the Big Island (and in the entire state of Hawaii) is 60 mph. Basically only found on the Daniel K. Inouye Highway (Saddle Road) during the high-elevation stretch between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa that cuts through the island.
• Most of the main arteries that circle the island (Route 11 and Route 19) fluctuate between 45 and 55 mph.
• In small towns and residential areas: 25–35 mph. (more likely 25). Beware also of the "town trap" where you might be cruising at 55 mph and suddenly see a sign for 35 mph, followed quickly by 25 mph (and a nice speed check patrol that will be all too happy to issue a speeding ticket).
• School zones and work zones: Hawaii (much like the rest of the country) is extremely strict about school zones and speed fines are often doubled or even tripled in these areas, and police regularly monitor them. When the yellow lights are flashing, the limit is 25 mph, no exceptions.
• Lava & Rain: If it’s raining (it WILL rain on the Hilo side), the oils on the road mixed with water make the asphalt incredibly slick. Most locals will naturally drive 5–10 mph below the limit during a downpour. This is also part of the driving with Aloha culture (more on this later)

Fueling

Get over the fact that you are doing gas, measured in gallons.

In other blog posts, I mention countries where refueling is done the "non-American" way. What I mean is that the country uses an "honor system" of pumping first and paying for the amount used later. Therefore in the US instead, payment is done upfront to unlock the pump.

Most US gas stations are self-service (in 49 out of 50 states, with the exception of New Jersey). Unlocking the pump by credit card at the automatic machine is usually not an option for foreigners as many pumps ask for your 5-digit zip code for "security." In this case simply go inside to the cashier, tell them your pump number, and "pre-pay" an amount (e.g., "$50 on pump 4"). If you don't use it all, the remainder is refunded to your card automatically.

Tolls Roads

The days of throwing quarters into a basket are mostly gone, and most US tolls are now electronic. If you drive through a toll booth without a transponder (like E-ZPass or SunPass), the rental company will charge your credit card later (often with a hefty "administrative fee" attached). Ask your rental agency about a toll pass before you leave the lot (note however that companies often charge a "convenience/administrative fee" per day just for having the device). Check if your specific itinerary passes through toll boots with transponders, or with license plate readers

For this specific road trip, Hawaii does not have toll roads and all roads are free.

Police

The US has "traffic police" in the form of Highway Patrols. Interactions with American police are notoriously quite formal and should be taken seriously.

If you get pulled over or stopped at a checkpoint, remember to:

• Follow instructions and keep your hands visible (on the steering wheel) and wait for the officer to approach your window.
• Do not reach into the glove box or under the seat for your documents until the officer asks you to (as they are trained to be wary of hidden weapons).
• Similarly, do not get out of your car unless asked to.
• Turn on your interior light if it’s nighttime.
• Do not attempt to offer a "cash payment" under any circumstance, to avoid the ticket or to resolve the ticket on the spot. This is considered bribery and could land you in jail.

In general, and like in many other countries when dealing with traffic police (and which don't have high incidence of police corruption), it's preferable to let them know that you are a foreigner and are unaccustomed to the code of conduct - maybe they might be more lenient and understanding (provided of course that you are not overtly breaking major rules)

Wildlife and Roadkill

In Hawaii you won't find many "interstates" and instead will drive narrow coastal roads, and volcanic terrain. The island is rich in biodiversity so additional special attention must be given to wildlife encounters on the road. The most common encounters are:

• The Nēnē (Hawaiian Goose): This is the state bird and is endangered. You will see signs everywhere saying "Brakes for Nēnē." They have no natural fear of humans and often hang out in parking lots or on road shoulders (especially on the Big Island and Kauai). Hitting one isn't just terrible but also a federal offense with massive fines.
• Boars: You’ll find these on almost every island, but they are a major issue on Kauai and the Big Island. They are solid, heavy, and dark, making them nearly invisible on unlit rural roads. Hitting a 200-pound boar will easily total a small rental car.
• Axis Deer: These are the most dangerous animals on the roads in Hawaii. Unlike mainland deer, Axis deer are invasive, move in massive herds, and are notoriously unpredictable. If you see one, five more are likely about to jump out.
• Open Range: You will find "Open Range" areas. This means cattle are allowed to wander onto the road. If you hit a cow in an open range zone, you might actually be legally liable for the cost of the animal.

Driving Etiquette & Quirks

The "Right Turn on Red" Rule: In almost every state, you can make a right turn at a red light after coming to a complete stop, provided the way is clear and there isn't a sign explicitly saying "No Turn On Red."

School Buses: If a yellow school bus has its red lights flashing and its "STOP" arm extended, you must stop, regardless of which direction you are traveling. This is strictly enforced and carries heavy fines.

The 4-Way Stop: This is a classic American intersection where all four directions have a stop sign. The rule is simple: First to arrive, first to go. If two cars arrive at the same time, the person to the right has the right of way. It’s a test of patience and polite nodding.

Flashing Red vs. Flashing Yellow: A flashing red light is exactly the same as a Stop Sign. A flashing yellow light means "Proceed with caution," but you don't need to stop.

U-Turns: In many states, U-turns are perfectly legal at intersections unless a sign specifically says "No U-Turn." This is a lifesaver when your GPS inevitably glitches.

The "Move Over" Law: If you see an emergency vehicle (police, ambulance, or tow truck) stopped on the shoulder with lights flashing, you are legally required to move over one lane to give them space.

Driving in Hawaii

Personally, I was told off and screamed at for apparently tailgating. In my opinion I was something like 3 car distances away, but perhaps it's my European bias (used to smaller roads and cars) or having adapted to Asian driving (with more packed traffic).

In general in Hawaii, driving is about patience, respect, yielding, and strictly sticking to speed limits. This is known as the "Drive with Aloha" culture.

• Avoid Honking: Honking your horn is considered very rude unless it’s an emergency.
• Yielding: If a line of cars forms behind you on a scenic two-lane road, use a designated pull-out to let locals pass.
• Pedestrians First: Locals often walk to beaches or town centers; always yield at crosswalks, even if they aren't marked.
• The "Shaka" Thanks: If someone lets you merge (which they will), it is customary to stick your hand out the window and give a shaka (the "hang loose" gesture 🤙) as a thank you.

Generally just embrace the surfer and chill culture

General info & tips

Seasons & Best Time to Visit

The weather in Hawaii is hot and humid, with frequent rainfall. However, given the isolation of the island, the wet and hurricane seasons do not affect Hawaii that much, leaving the weather relatively tame.

Spring and Autumn are the "shoulder seasons" and you’ll find fewer crowds and more affordable rental car rates.

Given its proximity to the equator, sunblock is a must, but not all places are hot and sunny. The islands are all volcanic and there can be a large difference in elevation, with consequent temperature differences. On the Big Island in particular, the summits of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa often experience snowfall and the temperature can easily drop to freezing.

I was quite shocked by the difference between the east and west coasts of the island. The whole east coast surrounding Hilo was perpetually covered in rain, beating down on the molten magmatic rocks. Once climbed over Mauna Loa and traversed to the other side, the weather changed completely, transforming into the more expected sunny and dry climate, with all the clouds kept at bay by the imposing mountain.

Safety

Violent crime is quite rare on the islands and crime goes as far as pickpocketing or drug-related.

When it comes to safety in Hawaii, it is more a matter of natural risks. In Hawaii, there are five volcanoes, four of which reside on the Big Island and these are all active to this day. Because of this, the major potential risks are volcanic-related events such as earthquakes and tsunamis.

Emergencies number: 911

Safety Indices

Entry Requirements

Citizens of the 38 countries within the Visa Waiver Program (VWP), as well as Canadians and Bermudians, do not require visas for entry for tourism or business purposes.

All passports must be biometric and if a passport is an older one that was issued before biometric passports were available, it will need to be updated with a new passport to travel to the U.S. on the VWP.

In any case, prior to travel, the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) entry form must be submitted. ESTA approval covers multiple trips and is valid for two years (unless your passport expires earlier). This requirement is applicable only to entry by sea or air.

Input your passport citizenship and quickly see the requirements that apply to you:

Flora and Fauna

This is probably the most striking aspect. The island is basically split in half by the Mauna Loa volcano, which creates two very distinct microclimates. The east is covered in rainforests, whereas the west has beaches. This creates a nice balance regarding the “static” natural wonders, with the east side showcasing volcanoes, rainforests, and frequent rainbows, whereas the west side offers black sand beaches, incredible sunsets, and numerous animal species in their environment.

When it comes to wildlife, in Hawaii there are no predators and the fauna is generally harmless. That being said, the island in the middle of the Pacific and has some marine species that, much like in Australia, can be very dangerous, such as the infamous Box Jellyfish, Cone Snails, Moray Eels, and Great White Sharks.

On land, the rainforests create a natural habitat for spiders and snakes, some of which are venomous.

Most of the natural attractions and diverse fauna lie in the ocean. Snorkeling and diving areas are beautiful and apart from the famously high presence of turtles, the coral reef is pristine and wonderful to explore.

Etiquette

• As in all other places, do not take anything from the island with you. When it comes to nature, such as lava rocks, sea shells, or plumage, it is frowned upon, and there is a belief in Pele’s Curse, stating that removing anything natively Hawaiian will bring bad luck to whoever takes it away. Besides, it is actually illegal to remove minerals in Hawaii.
• Do not disturb the wildlife such as sea turtles or other animals and respect their natural habitat.
• In Hawaii, friendliness is the way to go. You will hear extensively about aloha and mahalo and these greetings and thank-yous should be reciprocated.
• It is common to witness hulas. These dances are everywhere for visitors to enjoy but are an important part of Hawaiian culture. As such, do not make fun of the dancers or join the hula uninvited.
• Hawaii inherits the Asian Pacific tradition of taking shoes off in other people’s homes.

Other Tips

• People and tourism: It is no secret that native Hawaiians don’t like foreigners or Haoles, but it is mostly referred to those who settle there. From a tourism point of view, being much of the island’s income, the friendliness is immense. Think of chill US Americans, which should give you an idea. The east side of Hilo, which is much less touristic and basically a big residential area, is harder for tourists to get around as shops, restaurants, etc. outside of the main city are almost nonexistent.
• Connectivity: Excellent because Hawaii sits on the high capacity submarine cables that connect South East Asia and the US. While browsing and searching for hotels, I saw that every major hotel would boast good connectivity and internet speed, and now I understand why.

Frequently Asked Questions

Itinerary

With all that said and done, let’s move on to the "itinerary"

Keep the imposing Mauna Loa as divider for the two sides of the island, and enjoy on the east side the lush rainforests, and volcanic landscapes. Here you are in vocano land and it feels like being in a land of giants, or dinosaurs.

Despite being the largest city on the Big Island in terms of area, Hilo has a small population and is much less frequented by tourists.

It lies on the eastern side of the island, where the tropical microclimate makes it incredibly humid. The town of Hilo is actually the second rainiest town in the United States (after towns in Alaska), with over 250 days of precipitation annually.

This heavy rainfall benefits the surrounding fauna creating some of the most impressive rainforests ever in terms of the size of the plants that inhabit it.

Impressions

The town of Hilo does not have a lot to offer to visitors and is mostly for locals and residents, although there are some historical and very nice cafes as well as several shops for surfing gear located in Hilo Bay.

It is a good location for setting up base in a hotel or apartment being close to the Volcano region and lush rainforests nearby.

Within an hour’s drive of my apartment, there are probably 10 restaurants, all of which are either disgusting Taco Bells, McDonald’s, et al. inside huge parking lots, or beaten-up shacks where “Frankie” can cook you a pizza near a gas station if you can wait for 30 minutes and can stomach it.

Akaka Falls is a 135mt high waterfall located within the ʻAkaka Falls State Park.

The accessible portion of the park lies high on the right shoulder of the deep gorge into which the waterfall plunges and the falls can be viewed from several points along a loop trail through the park.

Impressions

The park is a short circular walk within the huge forest. Huge from the point of view of the sheer size of the surrounding vegetation. The largest ferns I have ever seen are as big as cars. Bamboo trees are as tall as entire houses. It all felt very “Jurassic Park” (which has all been filmed basically somewhere on the Hawaiian Islands, and now I see why).

Rainbow Falls are a 24-meter tall and 30m wide waterfall fed by the Wailuku River.

Known in the Hawaiian language as Waiānuenue (literally “rainbow water”), the falls flow over a natural lava cave, the mythological home of Hina, an ancient Hawaiian goddess.

Close to the ‘Akaka Falls are the Rainbow Falls, which often portray rainbows within the mist but, due to the weather, I was not able to see. As with other similar falling waterfalls, you can see the optical illusion of the surrounding rocks moving (if you stare still at a point of the waterfall, which you can’t and your eyes will constantly skim up, for 10–15 seconds, the surrounding cliffs will start to move upwards). Always a neat illusion.

The Kaumana Cave is a lava tube created by the lava flow from the eruption of Mauna Loa in 1881.

The immense tube is more than 2km long making it the 57th longest lava tube in the world.

Impressions

The lava caves were amazing and personally the highlight of my visit, being passionate for cave systems. I enjoyed that there were no lights, no walkways, or any other sort of comfort for the visiting tourists. Instead, the whole tunnel was in pitch darkness. The surrounding walls, ceiling, and floor, all covered in petrified magma, gave that otherworldly vibe to the whole exploration. Also, the absolute silence was immense and the intermitting dripping of water was deafening.

Punualu’u, also known as Black Sand Beach, despite not being the only black sand beach on the island, is famous for the green turtles that bask on the black sand.

Impressions

One thing that struck me, apart from the obvious unusual sand color, is the physical consistency of the beach. Walking on the less-beaten paths and less compacted parts of the beach gives a strange feeling of instability. The sand “trembles” under your feet so to speak.

The beach is famous and was pretty busy (a poor green turtle had more tourists taking pictures of it, including me, than a movie star on the red carpet). I managed to find a spot and admire the scenery. I enjoyed watching the complexity of the shoreline and the effects it had on the crashing waves. I spent a while there just getting burned by the sun while imagining tales of angry Nāmaka.

Waipiʻo Valley (the "Valley of the Kings") is widely considered the most sacred and visually spectacular spot on the Big Island.

Impressions

Imagine a lush, emerald-green cathedral carved into the coastline. The valley is a mile wide and over five miles deep, guarded by sheer cliffs rising 2,000 feet high. From the lookout, you see a patchwork of ancient taro fields (loʻi), winding rivers, and a dramatic black sand beach pounded by deep blue surf. It feels like stepping back into ancient Hawaii: quiet, powerful, and deeply spiritual.

The road to the valley is one of the steepest roads in the world (25% slope on average). I personally did not do it due to the intense rain on that day and the lack of 4WD

The island of Hawai’i is formed by 5 flat shield volcanoes, 3 of which are dormant or extinct, the other 2 being Kilauea and the larger nearby Mauna Loa, both of which are still active and contributing to the creation and extension of the island to this day.

Originally, it was considered only a satellite of its much larger neighbor, Mauna Loa, but is now recognized as an independent volcano, and the Halema’uma’u crater of Kilauea is one of Earth’s most active volcanoes.

In Hawaiian religion and mythology, it is both the home and physical representation of the goddess of fire, lightning, and wind, Pele. According to some versions of the legend, she fled to Hawaii to escape the rage of her sister Nāmaka, goddess of the seas, because she stole Nāmaka’s sorcerer husband and found refuge on the tall mountain of Mauna Loa, where the crashing waves of her enraged sister would not reach her. To this day, the lava flows meeting the sea are seen as an everlasting conflict between the two siblings. According to other tales, she was killed by Nāmaka and her angry spirit embodies itself through the lava and steam emitted from Kilauea.

Impressions

After taking some pictures from lookout points, I took a long hike through the Devastation Trail and Kilauea Trail, which coasted the crater, through the surrounding forest, and descended into the caldera. The trails were spotted with steam vents, which I quickly passed by due to the unbearable heat (as well as sulfur and carbon monoxide exhalations).

Due to its ongoing activity, it is not possible to actually visit the Halema’uma’u Crater, and most of the surrounding flat caldera is off-limits. However, the little section that I was able to traverse was otherworldly, as the rocks on the ground felt both completely compressed and immovable and brittle at the same time. The searing sunrays and vapors on the horizon helped create this hellish perception of the environment.

Kaimu Beach is near the village of Kalapana, on the eastern side of the island. The village itself was submerged by lava from Kilauea in 2010 and 2018.

Impressions

Kaimu Beach gave me a similar feeling to my visit to Kilauea. The vast stretch of solidified volcanic rocks which lead to the coast, with burned and abandoned cars and timid plants desperately poking from the ground was an otherworldly scene.

As nice as the beach is, it is arguably impossible to swim on due to the strong waves crashing on the shore. Even more than Punalu’u, it really felt like witnessing the goddess Nāmaka throwing tantrums at the volcanic coastal rocks.

Visiting Mauna Kea is the peak (literally and figuratively) of a Big Island road trip. It is one of the few places on Earth where you can drive from sea level to over 4,200mt in about two hours.

However, this isn't a casual Sunday drive and requires preparation. First and foremost the main issue is the altitude sickness (if you went scuba diving this is even more dangerous due to the bends). With such a fast ascent it's important to stop halfway at the visitor center for acclimatization. Secondly, you absolutely need a 4WD to reach the actual peak. With a normal car, the road is paved and easy but takes you only about halfway up to the Visitor information Station. Finally, the temperature will be freezing or below with rarefied air, so you need to be dressed appropriately. At the summit the highlight is seeing the sun setting into the clouds below while the 13 world class telescopes start to rotate and open as night falls.

But again, this is a difficult ascent that must be organized with guides. An easier alternative is to stop at the the Visitor Information Station where large telescopes are set up by rangers and volunteers allowing for some mesmerizing stargazing

If, like me, you can't visit the summit of Mauna Kea, the road that cuts through the island will give you a glimpse of its majesty.

The Daniel K. Inouye Highway, also known as the Saddle Road because of the high altitude stretch between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea creating the "saddle" landscape, cuts through the island and showcases how the Big Island is actually a miniature continent.

You leave the tropical waterfalls and the moody Hilo, leaving behind the over 200 days of yearly rainfall, and head to the turqoise waters and golden-hour paradise of Kona with its over 300 days of yearly sun.

Nestled at the bottom of Mount Hualālai on the south-western coast of the island, the small town of Kailua Kona (also known simply as Kona) is the more famous and frequented by tourists cousin of the larger Hilo. Once home to the famous King Kamehameha I, who united the Hawaiian Islands, it's history as a fishing village has been replaced nowadays with tourism.

Here the "vacation vibe" is palpable, with excellent weather, incredible sunsets, and calmer waters ideal for snorkeling. This is a perfect place to set up your second base to explore the surroundings. The Kailua Pier is the hub of the town where the snorkeling cruises depart in the mornings. In the evenings the bars and cafes which line the Aliʻi Drive coastal road are brimming with visitors, all enjoying the golden hour, and refreshing cocktails in front of magnificent sunsets.

The most famous attraction and considered the "ultimate kona experience" is the Manta Ray Night Snorkel where you can see up close the sinuous dances of the large creatures.

if you're still hungry for dramatic landscapes and cliffs, the Papakōlea "green sand" beach is located at South point - the southernmost point of Hawaii and the US in general.

Close to Kona is also Kahalu’u Beach Park - one of the best spots for beginner snorkeling thanks to its shallow, calm waters, teeming with colorful reef fish and green sea turtles.

Impressions

The east side, with its tropical rainforest climate and ever-present rain, had started to grind on me. The west side, on the other hand, is the more arid, beach, snorkeling, and tourist side. I already knew this but I did not expect the difference to be so extreme.

The town of Kailua Kona felt like a small Honolulu: too much tourism, too many shops, and too many bars on the coast with happy hours and luaus exhibitions for foreigners. But after 10 days of “real” east side, I gladly took it. After days of ever-present I was able to see a sunset, and I could see the rain-filled clouds gather over the towering mountain without invading the city, almost as if kept away by a magical force.

Kealakekua Bay offers some of the best snorkeling and diving in Hawaii due to its shallow waters and lack of strong waves or tides, in contrast to other parts of the island’s coast.

The site is famous also for it being the place of death of Captain Cook. After an initial peaceful encounter with the ancient Hawaiians, relations started to sour because of a series of misunderstandings and acts of disrespect, and ultimately found himself and his crew outnumbered during their retreat.

Impressions

There is a hard trail leading to the bay, mostly because of the thick vegetation and unforgiving sun. It's a 2.8-kilometer hike mostly flat except the last parts descending the volcano. Depending on your fitness it takes around 1.5 hours at a quick pace.

When I reached the sea, I was confronted with something like 50 snorkelers, all bumping into each other, each with their own fluorescent floating device. There are 3 ways to reach the spot: swimming from the other side of the bay, through this arguably difficult hike, and by boat. I reached the shore when four boats had just arrived and had thrown their anchors and their dozen snorkelers each. I walked to the side of the main area, did a part into the jungle/forest and found a nice quiet spot.

Finally! After having traveled around half of the world, I had a decent reef experience that reminded me of when I was a kid in the Red Sea: floating in the shallow water only to be dragged around by the current with dozens of colorful fish all around was both peaceful and exciting. I saw hundreds of sea urchins, finally some healthy corals, hundreds upon hundreds of yellow tang fish, and some other multicolored ones interspersed here and there. When I swam further out and reached the cliff to the deeper ocean, I found myself surrounded by needlefish, all of them calm, just being dragged by the current and occasionally diving deeper to take a bite at something within the corals. Generally, all the “classical” reef fish, of which I do not know the names.

I spent a couple of hours on the boiling volcanic stone slabs that fall into the ocean, near a submerged plaque indicating the death spot of James Cook, observing the crabs and the numerous yellow tangs on the surface, which could be seen with the naked eye. The water was clear and at the perfect temperature. I did a couple of immersions, and every time I would come out (with quite some difficulty due to the slippery algae and tons of sea urchins all around), I would see a bunch of curious mongooses snooping around my backpack.

Closing Thoughts

The island of Hawai’i is everything that I had expected and more. It is more rugged than other arguably prettier Hawaiian islands and I enjoyed the lack of immense resorts or pristine beaches in favor of a wilder and more genuine natural environment.

Despite being stricken by some bad luck with the flu for a couple of days and the closure of the famous Waipio Valley, as well as the weather conditions that prevented me from experiencing astronomical observations on Mauna Kea, the stay was wonderful nonetheless.

This little island protruding from the Pacific Ocean really is a small paradise, yet also a powerful representation of awe-inspiring natural forces.