Beyond the Ring Road – Camping in Iceland under the Midnight Sun

No wonder Jules Verne's Journey to the Center of the Earth starts here. The "Land of Ice and Fire" feels like the furnace of our planet where primordial forces create, destroy, or remain trapped and frozen in time. Here everything cracks and creaks. Bubbles from below or thunders from above.

It is a land of extremes. Much like the opposites of Fire and Ice, the Sun may never set, or never show itself. Amongst these extremes, peaceful sheep graze the few lush plains and hop over streams of glacial cold water. Sturdy Icelandic horses weather the outdoors year-round, everywhere from fjord shores to steep hills and mountains. Whales migrate to fertile feeding grounds, and most of the world's puffins nest on jaw-dropping cliffs.

The Ring Road is a short loop but feels like traversing our entire solar system. From lunar landscapes of desolate black sand, to martian red sand canyons and plateaus, to boiling sulfuric surface of Venus, to the smooth icy shell of Europa.

I started like everyone else on the Ring Road, but the landscape enthralled me to explore more, beyond the looping road of perfect tarmac.

In this trip I offer to pay for some ice to put in the cooler, without realizing it might not be that rare commodity, stubbornly insist in my feeble attempts to block the light of the Midnight Sun from entering the campervan, and fall in love again with another truly wild country, to the point of feeling like I have known it all along.

Overview

This might be the easiest road trip for a first timer. It's short, the campsites are (generally) well equipped and with all comforts (that can be expected from a camp). The Ring Road is incredibly well maintained, and the driving culture is respectful. It's a piece of cake. Add to this the sheer amount of beautiful sights, it might just well be the perfect road trip country.

The journey begins and ends in Keflavík, moving in a clockwise direction. It covers the island's most distinct geographical regions and all major sights of the "Golden Circle", "Diamond Circle", and "Silver Circle". But it doesn't stop there. Instead, it goes beyond the Ring Road, into the dramatic alpine scenery of the northern Tröllaskagi peninsula. It extends to the "Iceland in miniature" landscapes of the Snæfellsnes peninsula to the west, and the remote-as-it-gets Westfjords.

It's designed for travelers traveling by campervan so I will cover and suggest also the best and most popular campsites. Some stops might seem overly packed with sights but that is because they are grouped by major destination. Also, who needs sleep anyways?

The Fast Facts

Iceland at a Glance

• Language: Icelandic
• Population: 394.000 (2026 est.)
• Timezone: UTC +0
• Political System: Parliamentary representative democratic republic
• Ethnic Groups: 86% Icelandic, 6% Polish, 7% Other ethnicities
• Religions: 67% Christianity, 32% Other or no religion
• Currency: Icelandic Krona (ISK)
• Credit Cards: Largely cashless society, ATMs present only in major towns and cities)
• Electricity: 230 volt / 50 hertz (Europlug, Schuko)
• Tipping Customs: not customary, 5-10% for exceptional service
• Haggling Culture: Not common

Getting Around

Camping

Car Rental & Insurance

The main local rental agencies are Rent.is, Kuku Campers, Happy Campers, and GO Campers. From my anectodal experience it seemed to me that Rent.is (the one I used for a simple Fiat Doblò/Kangoo Maxi manual 2WD van) is the most popular for basic Ring Road loops and sticking to the beaten path, whereas I would see Happy Campers cars in the more hard to reach areas and often more rugged vans or jeeps with 4WD.

Rental recommendation: F-Roads are mandatory only for 4x4. However if you want to see anything beyond the ring road (or do the oxi pass to cut) you need higher clearance and 4x4 just because otherwise rentals will not cover the damages. The non paved roads can be quite bad with sharp rocks that can shred tires.

Campsites

Wild/free camping in the country is not permitted basically anywhere since over a decade, and overnight stops can only be made in regulated campsites. Prices range from around 2000 ISK to 5000 ISK and is usually counted per head/number of people.

Rent.is provided this handy Google Map with all campsites. It's always a good idea to cross-check those destinations with camping focused apps to get an idea of the vibe and what to expect. Check out this article for an overview on the best overnight stops and camping apps.

Pro Tip: Consider buying the Útilegukortið (Camping Card) as it can save significant money on camping fees. If you have already planned your night stops, evaluate whether you need it as not all camping grounds accept it (often not the most popular ones).

Every campsite will have an additional fee for the usage of electricity. From my experience this is always a flat 1000 ISK. Like in other campsites in the world, powered sites are often separated from the more "wild" side which is used for tents.

The quality and prices of campsites varies considerably as well as what's included in the basic fee and sometimes you may find many campsites that have paid showers with coin slots (usually around 500 ISK for 3 or 5 minutes). This is because of the cultural norms in the country, where the campsite showers are considered an added luxury, rather than a basic hygiene need (also because every small town will have access to a public geothermal swimming pool where showering is mandatory before entry and included in the entry fee, so there is a more popular alternative to camp showers).

Almost everywhere payment by card is accepted. Few campsites have a reception area(or rather they do, but its oftenempty). Honesty boxes are not common and Instead camp wards will visit you in the evening or early morning to collect.

Driving in the Land of Fire and Ice

• First and foremost, the basics: in Iceland, driving is on the right side, and all common driving requirements are followed (i.e., mandatory seatbelts, it is illegal to drive under the influence (limit at 0.02%), and the driving legal age is 17).
• An IDP is not required to drive in Iceland. That being said, a general rule is that the license must always use the characters that are used in the country, so if your drivers license is written with Chinese, Arabic, Cyrillic, or others you will need to an IDP.
• As per common traffic rules with RHT, priority must be given to vehicles coming from the right, except on roundabouts which are anticlockwise, with way given to those already in the roundabout (so to the left).

• No "Off-Roading": Off-road driving is strictly illegal in Iceland and carries massive fines. It permanently destroys fragile volcanic moss that takes centuries to regrow. Always stick to marked roads and designated parking areas.
• Single-Lane Bridges: You will encounter many of these along the Ring Road. The rule of thumb is simple: the car closer to the bridge has the right of way. Slow down as you approach and always be ready to yield.
• Headlights: Must be on 24/7, year-round, by law. Your rental van should do this automatically, but always double-check.

Speed Limits

Speed limits are easy: urban areas or crossing the one lane bridges: 50 km/h. Paved rural areas: 90 km/h which is the maximum limit in the country. Gravel roads which are common are 80 km/h (if your rental is not 4x4 you will rarely even reach that speed). Speed limits are strictly enforced and fines are high (often starting at $200+).

Locals will often drive at around 110 km/h in parts which they clearly know and are more remote.

One thing that I noticed and that is almost one of a kind, is that specific speed limits like for sharp turns or roadworks are actually appropriate and always realistic. In all my driven kilometers and countries visited, it is common to see temporary limits placed as "indications" or "traps" and them being overly strict. There is no nonsense such as a bunch of signs with 60, 40, 30, 10 just to indicate to slow down for potential roadworks ahead (leading to them being useless to gauge the actual speed that is required). Here instead, if there is a 60 sign before a turn, that is the actual speed you need to slow down to. A 50 on a straight indicates either a pothole, or a stretch of particularly nasty gravel road.

Roads

The Ring Road/Route 1 is always in pristine condition. Other paved roads are also in excellent shape

F-Roads and 4WD: Beyond the Ring Road, many routes in Iceland are unpaved gravel. F-Roads specifically designate mountain tracks where a 4x4 vehicle is legally mandatory. You can find a list and map here: https://epiciceland.net/list-f-roads-iceland/. However, my suggestion is to rent a 4WD vehicle anyways even if you don't plan to traverse F-Roads. Many standard gravel roads are heavily corrugated with sharp rocks, meaning higher ground clearance is essential. Sticking to a 2WD vehicle may force you to skip iconic sights with rough access roads. Furthermore, navigating these bumpy sections in a standard car considerably lengthens travel times due to the low speeds required to drive safely.

Toll Roads

There are no tolls roads in Iceland. The only exception Vaðlaheiðargöng tunnel near Akureyri which requires a separate toll which must be paid online at veggjald.is within 24 hours of passing through.

As of January 1, 2026, Iceland has introduced a kilometer-based road tax (kílómetragjald) for all vehicles. Rental agencies usually track this via the vehicle's odometer and bill you upon return (around 7 ISK/km).

Fueling

I haven't seen a single fueling station which was not self-service and automated. These work by credit or debit card.

Pro Tip: Don't select "full tank" as it places a temporary hold on your card of around 200$. Instead select a specific amount (e.g. 10,000 ISK).

You will quickly see that Iceland is sparsely populated, and outside the Ring Road this is even more so. Therefore in regions like the Eastfjords or Westfjords, be sure to always keep at least 1/4 tank full. Driving across fjords or winding roads to the next station might mean driving for two hours.

Parking

While the Ring Road is toll free, almost all sights along the road have paid zone parking. Especially on the south coast and Golden Circle, it is common to simply stop 3, 4 times for a brief visit at a popular sight. All these stops will require you to pay between 1000-1400 ISK (8$ - 12$). All of these paid zone have cameras to record your license plate so payment is mandatory (unless you want to spend three times as much in fines).

These paid zones can be paid at the local automatic booth or through the Parka app (iOS app, Android app) and allowing location tracking and checking in the app when you stop.

Apart from these absurdly overpriced parking fees, parking elsewhere in cities for example is more reasonable.

Police

You'll rarely see patrol cars (I only saw a police car once, at 5 in the morning), but automated speed cameras are frequent (on the Ring Road, outside less so).

Wildlife & Roadkill

The main wildlife you will encounter are sheep, horses, and birds. Horses are always fenced in their respective farmlands, whereas sheep may be free roaming. All livestock is owned by local farmers and must be accounted for, so (god forbid) if you hit any, you are legally required to call the emergencies number (112). Pay close attention to singled out sheep, as lambs are extremely frightful and will dart towards their mother the moment you get close no matter what.

horses a lot because they breed them, icelandic horses are strudy can stay out in winter and dont have common diseases

Similarly birds, which usually are the most agile and least endangered animals roadkill-wise, can have trouble avoiding you or getting up to speed because of the strong gusts of wind. Also, arctic terns are territorial and tend to stand their ground, remaining in the middle of the lane until the last second.

Other, more rare, wildlife include reindeers and arctic foxes (saw one at 3:30 in the morning looking at me with a "what are you doing up?" look on its face).

General Info & Tips

Season & Best Time to Visit

Iceland is an extreme example of those countries that showcase a strong contrast between seasons, meaning that the "best time to visit" depends entirely on the experience you are looking for. If you are hunting for the Northern Lights, or want to see the "Land of Ice" at its most characteristic, then deep winter is the best season. You will have almost constant darkness, an environment frozen in time, and few crowds. This however is a "harder" season, especially for a camping road trip.

Summer on the other hand offers the opposite: perpetual sunlight, roaring waterfalls from melted ice, and reliably open roads. It is also when all campsites are open and accessible. This is clearly the most popular season and when I personally visited. It is also the best season for whale and puffin watching.

Shoulder seasons as always provide a good balance of cheaper prices, fewer crowds, decent weather, and "normal"/recognizable daylight cycles).

Pro Tip: If visiting in Summer (peak season) take advantage of the practically, if not total, perpetual daylight hours given by the Midnight Sun. By slightly shifting your schedule you can end your day and get early to popular campsites to get the best spots, and wake up early to visit tourist magnet sights before tour buses arrive. I strolled around Geyser at 11 pm, Svartifoss at 5 in the morning, and drove around the Snaefellsnes peninsula at 4 a.m.

Safety

Iceland is consistently ranked as one of the safest countries in the world in terms of crime, that is not the issue. Safety in Iceland revolves entirely around nature and the environment. Between hot springs with boiling temperatures, glaciers and crevices, earthquakes and volcanoes from the island being split in half by the Euroasian and American tectonic plates, the country is primordial to say the least. It's not called the Land of Fire and Ice for no reason after all.

Some specific, well-known spots that can be potentially dangerous, are hot springs and geothermal valleys where you should always stay on the marked pathways and never bathe unless clearly stated safe to do so. Anything that is related to ice should be approached with understandable caution as it can break, icebergs flips, etc. So, in general, and as redundant as it may sound, be aware of "fire and ice". Also on popular beaches like Reynisfjara, the crashing waves can suddenly become massive and surge, pulling someone out to sea in seconds.

The best advice here is to stay informed: SafeTravel.is is your bible. Use the app to check for weather alerts, road closures (you can also log your travel plan so search and rescue knows your general area).

Emergencies Number: 112. This is the universal number for police, ambulance, and fire services.

Safety Indices

Entry Requirements

While not part of the EU, Iceland is a member of the Schengen Agreement

Click the map to see details on visa requirements for each country

Alternatively, input your passport citizenship and quickly see the requirements that apply to you:

Other Tips

• Taxis: the country is expensive. As mentioned previously there are absurdly high parking fees for stopping at a waterfall. That you can't get around. One thing you can avoid are the taxi ripoffs. There is no ride-sharing in Iceland and taxis (which are basically all located in the Capital Region and Keflavik) are notoriously extremely expensive. When you land at Keflavik airport take the shuttle bus to Reykjavik. You can add an optional small van pickup from the bus depot to your hotel, but honestly Reykjavik is quite small and walkable and most places can be reached by foot.
• As always I give a note on alcohol since I can't really understand doing a camping road trip and not having an evening drink: all selling of alcohol in Iceland is managed by the state-controlled Vinbudin liquor stores. There are 51 (😄) in the entire country and supermarkets are only allowed to sell beverages under 5% volume. Also, Sundays everything is closed so plan accordingly
• As an Italian I have to mention this: like Scandinavian countries, coffee places open no early than 10. Often at 12 like restaurants. I don't really understand the point of having breakfast at midday but if you are a coffee lover (or addict) be sure to add a moka or a french press to your campervan rental.

Frequently Asked Questions

Itinerary

With all that said and done, let’s move on to the itinerary and overview of sights and overnight stops of this amazing journey.

Driving times overview

You can't really start anywhere else (the other option is Akureyri but it has significantly less options in terms of international flights and campervan rental companies).

Spending at least a full day in Reykjavík is essential. Note that, despite being a capital (the northern-most capital city in the world) it is quite a small city, which can be visited easily by foot.

During the height of the summer, walking through the town in broad daylight when it is 11 o'clock in the evening is a sight and an experience in itself. There is a palpable "base camp" energy here, with travelers full of anticipation, yet disoriented from it all.

Here you can enjoy the cozy, low-paced vibes, the local gift shops, the coffee culture, and cats wandering between the picturesque houses.

For a city sightseeing instead, first and foremost visit Hallgrímskirkja, the church which towers over the center and dominates the skyline. Its staggering facade was directly inspired by the hanging basalt columns seen across the country.

Just down the hill, you will find Skólavörðustígur, famously known as Rainbow Street. This vibrant, photo-ready lane leads you directly into the heart of the primary shopping district.

From there, a walk along the coastline reveals the city's modern side, where the Sun Voyager sculpture sits gracefully on the shore. Nearby is the Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre, with its honeycomb glass facade that changes color depending on how the light hits it.

Further on you will reach the Old Harbor, where you can find some of the city's best seafood (I opted instead for a "one with everything" at the famous historic hot dog Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur hot dog stand. Delicious and went for seconds).

I was fortunate to have wonderful sunny days during my two day stay but if the weather turns "typically Icelandic," you can head to Perlan, a natural history museum inside a massive glass-domed building sitting atop a hill, where you can enjoy the popular Wonders of Iceland exhibition, or visit the planetarium to see Northern Lights shows. For a more traditional look at history, you can visit the National Museum of Iceland to browse artifacts stretching from the Viking age to the present day.

Finally, don't miss Laugavegur, the primary shopping and nightlife artery. Either for some day shopping of local wool products, or to participate in the city's vibrant bar scene by night.

If you rent your vehicle in Keflavik near the airport (which you probably will) consider a drive around the Reykjanes Southern Peninsula. It will give you a glimpse of what's about to come, and you can see your first boiling mud pools and intense steam vents at the Gunnuhver and Seltún geothermal areas.

Further on, the Bridge Between Continents, a small footbridge spanning a stark, sandy chasm showcases the fault between the Euroasian and North American tectonic plates, allowing you to literally walk from one continent to another in just a few steps.

Proceeding along the coast, you will reach the massive volcanic cliffs of Reykjanestá. These jagged rock faces are brimming with thousands of nesting seabirds during the summer months (watch out during your drive, as the arctic terns are territorial and it will seem like they taunt you not wanting to move away from the road).

You you will also pass through small settlements and past tiny, highly picturesque churches, like the historic stone-built Hvalsneskirkja, offering a wonderful introduction to the unique character of the Icelandic countryside before you begin the official loop.

All these sights can be seen later on (and arguably in much larger scale) but this short loop can be done in as little as 2 hours and can be a good half-day trip after you pick up your rental and on your way to the grocery store.

Thingvellir (Þingvellir) is the perfect first stop to make you feel like your journey is on another planet. This stop on the Golden Circle lets you stand in the gap between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. As you walk through the massive Almannagjá gorge, you’re hiking through a "no man’s land" rift valley that grows by about 2cm every year. The landscape has this rugged, "moon-like" quality, full of jagged rock formations, deep fissures, and moss-covered lava fields which make you feel incredibly small in the best way possible.

On top of the Almannagjá Fault, the other top sights not to miss are the Oxarárfoss waterfall that plunges over the edge of the tectonic plate (by the way you will see a LOT of waterfalls on this trip), and the Silfra Fissure which is a world-famous crystal-clear crack in the earth filled with glacial water and can even be visited on snorkeling tours.

Tip: Despite this being a major tourist destination, it isn't a sight which necessarily requires you to beat the crowds. The park is vast and even if you don't get there super early in the morning, you will always find a pathway or a "slot" to admire it.

After having thoroughly enjoyed this Land of Giants, proceed northeast towards the Geysir geothermal area.

Campsite: Skol camping is the one which is most recommended near Geysir and which I was planning on staying at. It was temporarily closed though when I visited so I opted for the Geysir camping.

Another heavy hitter of the Golden Circle is Geysir, where you will feel like stepping onto a stove. The ground steams, the water bubbles in neon-blue pools, and the "boiled egg" scent of sulfur in the air is always present.

While the famous Great Geysir which gives the name to the area (and to all geysirs in the world) has been "sleeping" for over a century, its neighbor Strokkur is the real star of the show. Every 5–10 minutes, a glacial blue bubble forms before it lets out a massive roar and blasts a column of boiling water up to 30 meters into the sky. Because it erupts with such high frequency, there are plenty of opportunities to witness it multiple times, giving you the perfect chance to just enjoy the spectacle with your own eyes and still have time to track the blue bubble forming with your camera for the perfect shot.

Just a ten-minute drive further up the road lies the mighty Gullfoss, or the "Golden Waterfall. You’ll hear it before you see it. Since you'll be seeing many foss waterfalls, what distinguishes Gulfoss is that it is a two-tier waterfall where the Hvítá river plunges down two "steps" before dropping into a 70-meter-deep, dramatic canyon. On sunny days, the mist creates shimmering rainbows that give the falls their name.

Tip: For both sites definitely try to get there early or late in the evening (or even at night in Summer). For Geysir walking around the geothermal valley almost by yourself surrounded by the sound of bubbling water instead of the noise of other visitors and tour buses changes completely the experience.

Campsite: As mentioned previously Skol camping is a popular campsite nearby, alternatively Geysir campsite lets you camp literally on the side of the visitor area and walk there. Personally, Geysir campsite was the worst camping of all and not a good introduction, being just a gravel parking lot, with showers open only in the morning at specific times, and the camp ward arrived the next day morning after 8 so I was "stuck" there waiting. However it is almost ridiculously well positioned, being right next to the geothermal area and 2 minute walk to the main Strokkur geyser. I visited late in the evening at 11pm and early morning at 5. Since Geysir is another of the top attractions of the Golden Circle, the position is honestly unbeatable.

Beyond the Golden Circle lies what is arguably the absolute peak of a visit to Iceland: the great cascades and towering cliffs that showcase the staggering scale of the natural forces shaping this country.

Tip: Be prepared for a misty, damp, and grey microclimate here. The southern region is notoriously rainy, and this moody weather only adds to the dramatic atmosphere of the landscape. Add to that the visits to powerful waterfalls and you will certainly get wet today.

Your morning begins just a short drive from the Geysir area with a quick stop at Faxi waterfall, where you can admire its short but extensive, wide rushing shelf from an overlook above.

From there, you will make your way down to the southern coast where the giant falls begin. The first major sight to catch your eye right from the road is Seljalandsfoss, a beautiful, towering cascade that lets you walk behind the curtain of water. Make sure to also walk just a few minutes further along the cliffside trail to discover Gljúfrabúi, a waterfall that stays tucked away inside a narrow rock inlet, making it feel like a hidden secret.

If Seljandsfoss seemed too packed with visitors, proceeding further you will find another "tight" powerful foss at Kvernufoss. Tucked away in a narrow gorge, this waterfall is far less visited but equally beautiful and offers a more intimate enclosure that you can also walk behind, letting you experience the raw power of the water without the crowds.

Next up is the mighty Skógafoss, a towering, massive wall of water. It is incredibly popular but for good reason. You can walk right up to it, but nobody does, as the sheer force of wind and water pushes back anyone who dares to attempt an approach, forcing everyone to abandon their approach a few feet away and simply marvel at the roar. This was my favorite of the dozen or more fossar I visited as it strikes a perfect balance of witnessing the raw, awe-inspiring power of water, coupled with an intimate up-close encounter.

Before reaching the campsite be sure to stop at Mýrdalsjökull glacier viewpoint for a glimpse of vast glaciers which will be an ever-present companion for the next few days. There are tours allowing you to climb the glacier (I did not do these so can't comment but I assume you would need to split your visit in two days to include this activity).

Campsite: A popular stop is Vik Camping in the small, charming town of Vik. This is the only "city" campsite I stayed in, opting elsewhere for more secluded places surrounded by nature. However don't think that you will be in any kind of large city, with traffic or anything like that. You are still surrounded by wild, towering green cliffs.

Wake up early (not too early, as the road opens only at 9 A.M) and head to Dyrhólaey, only a 15 minute drive from Vik. Here you will see dramatic cliffs and endless black sand beaches. If you arrive at the front of the line at the gate you will get that unique feeling of being alone when seeing the crashing waves on the pitch dark black lava sand beach.

Head also to Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach to see the black sand beach up close and the caves of basalt columns (be careful of the powerful waves which can suddenly surge between one ebb and flow).

Located just outside of Vik you will also find Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon, a 2-million-year-old canyon that looks like something out of a fairytale.

Proceed 200km along the coast where the landscape transitions into the vast, sweeping plains of the south-east as you drive toward Skaftafell, a dramatic wilderness area nestled right under the shadow of the iconic Vatnajökull glacier.

On the way be sure to stop at Laufskálavarða, a unique lava ridge where travelers throughout history would pile stones together for good luck before crossing the dangerous plains ahead.

Also check out Skeiðará Bridge Monument, a twisted pair of massive steel girders sitting right off the Ring Road. This is all that remains of a bridge that was completely washed away by a catastrophic glacial flood.

Campsite: Set up base at Skaftafell Campsite, perfectly positioned directly within the national park grounds. It is a beautiful, vast grass area where you can sleep surrounded by towering peaks, and get direct views of Skaftafellsjökull glacier and wake up right at the trailhead to Svartifoss.

From Skaftafell, start the morning early with a hike to Svartifoss, the famous "Black Falls". It's a steady, 45-minute, uphill walk, but it is entirely worth it to see the water surrounded by dark, perfectly geometric basalt columns. Even the walk towards it is impressive as you see this amphitheater waiting in the distance.

The next leg is the drive to Jökulsárlón and into the Vatnajökull National Park where the landscape shifts from black sand and waterfalls to massive walls of blue ice. This is the crown jewel of the Southern Region and the largest national park in the country, home to the Vatnajökull glacier (the largest glacier in Europe and the immense white spot you see on maps which seems covers almost half the country).

Your first encounter with this frozen world is at Svínafellsjökull, a spot often called the "Hollywood Glacier" because its dramatic, ash-streaked ice ridges served as the backdrop for movies like Interstellar and shows like Game of Thrones. Located just a few minutes’ drive from the main Skaftafell entrance, it allows you to walk right up to the edge of the ice (take it slow with the campervan as the road is a gravel track that can get quite bumpy).

Continuing along the road, you will come to Fjallsárlón, the quiet lagoon sitting at the base of the Fjallsjökull glacier tongue. While it is often overshadowed by its famous big brother further down the road, this smaller lagoon is significantly quieter and offers a much more intimate experience.

The grand finale of this stretch is Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, the undisputed crown jewel of the South Coast. Here, you can stand on the shore and watch massive, electric-blue icebergs break off the glacier and drift slowly through the water toward the open ocean. Once you have taken it all in, you simply cross the street to Diamond Beach, where those exact same icebergs wash back up onto the black volcanic sand via the tide.

This trip leg is often overlooked, being considered only a gateway between the Golden Circle of the Southern region and the Diamond Circle of the northern volcanic region. However, much like the western region, this is where the settlements are and where the scenery is more at a "human scale" without seeming like you are on the surface of another planet.

Also, the coastal road is amazing. In fact, it might just be the most beautiful road in the world! (check this article for my maniacal search for "THE" Road).

The Ring Road initially takes you through a quiet, unassuming stretch. But after passing the charming port town of Höfn, a spectacular detour awaits at Vestrahorn (Stokksnes). Here, an iconic, jagged mountain rises sharply out of a mirror-like black sand lagoon, creating an almost otherworldly vista.

From there, you venture into a surreal, lunar landscape, flanked by the dramatic peaks of Eystrahorn on one side and the wild shores of Hvalnes Nature Reserve beach on the other. The road winds past the base of empty, glacier-eroded hills before rising at the coastal viewpoint that marks the beginning of Múlaþing municipality. There you trace the dramatic, sweeping coastlines, but soon, the stark terrain softens into vibrant green prairies where Icelandic horses and sheep graze peacefully beside calm, shimmering fjords. You’ll even pass through rare pine forests that feel like a hidden secret in this landscape. Then the imposing, flawless pyramid of Búlandstindur commands the skyline, as you make way through smaller fjords surrounded by snow-capped mountains.

This isn't just a drive; it is a microcosm of epic road trip scenery packed into one unforgettable two-hour stretch. Assuming you are a road trip lover, this short stretch can even be a full sightseeing day as it is an overwhelming sensory experience that forces you to pull over and just take it all in.

This is what I did until I just "couldn't take it anymore". I finally stopped at Berunes campsite, almost annoyed from all this showing off, only to discover that I had casually bumped into the best campsite of the entire trip.

Campsite: Berunes Campsite is part of the Berunes hostel and easily one of the most beautiful campsites in Iceland. It features vast grounds with completely wide-open views of the fjord and the imposing, perfectly pyramidal mountain peak. Behind the Berunestindur mountain and tall waterfall offer an equally beautiful sight, offering also hikes and trail opportunities.

The facilities are top-tier, and are inside single cabins complete with bookshelves, sofas and complimentary toiletries, making it feel cozy and private. Perhaps it's not the most efficient campsite if there are multiple guests but I was alone and had the entire grounds and cabins to myself.

From the Berunes area, you face a choice on how to cross the mountain range toward the inland hub of Egilsstaðir. Either continue trailing the slower, scenic Eastfjords coast along the main Ring Road, passing through quiet, historic harbor towns like Djúpivogur, or the unique village of Fáskrúðsfjörður, with its street signs still written in both Icelandic and French.

Alternatively, if you are traveling in the summer when the road is open, you can cut directly through the mountains across the Öxi Pass via Route 939. This route rewards you with a spectacular "top of the world" feeling, offering sweeping views of the deep valleys below (keep in mind that this is a steep gravel road and if your campervan doesn't have four-wheel drive, the first part of the climb will require a slow pace).

Both routes eventually converge at Egilsstaðir, where you can take a highly recommended detour along the lake to Hengifoss, one of the tallest waterfalls in Iceland. If you have extra time, a 30-minute mountain drive from town will bring you to Seyðisfjörður, arguably Iceland’s most beautiful and artistic village. There you can stop for the night in the highly rated Seydisfjordur Camping Site.

Since I cut through the Öxi Pass and had still a lot of time, I proceeded north and ventured into yet another different world. Here are vast expansive landscapes and blue skies. Your very little Australia/Canada/US plains to cross through which gives that "middle of nowhere" feeling.

Keep an eye out for Rjúkandafoss, a powerful, multi-tiered waterfall located right off the Ring Road. A 30 minute detour (on a gravel road) leads you instead to Studlafoss where you will also find hiking trails.

Campsite: The historic Möðrudalur (Fjalladýrð) Farm is the highest inhabited farm in Iceland and a great place to stop to admire a different landscape and campsite vibe. It has a bit of a "touristy" feeling, being a self-contained village with a restaurant, turf-roofed glamping cabins, and pet reindeers, but its sense of isolation is wonderful.

Reindeers, snow hares, a curious cat, sheep and goats, and friendly dogs are regular residents, as well as arctic foxes in the early morning. It also offers unparalleled, sweeping views of the mighty flat-topped Mt. Herðubreið (frequently voted "The Queen of Icelandic Mountains"), providing a stark, beautiful backdrop for the night, with a Golden Hour that seems to never end.

We can't have the same landscape for two days straight so you will again step into another world and move to the "fire" part of the Land of Ice and Fire where lava rocks and red sands dominate the landscape (only to surprise you yet again and give way to lush greenery).

This is the "Diamond Circle" around Lake Myvatn and the geothermal furnace of Krafla.

Before however is another must-see waterfall: Dettifoss. It is the most powerful in Europe. Unlike the intimate cascades of the south, you can't walk behind this one or see it up close in a tight enclosure. You can only see it from above, and what you will mostly see is the mist and water vapour rising from canyon because of the thunderous falls of water. Proceeding along the trail upstream will lead to its elegant twin Selfoss. It is still massive and with smaller cascades but nothing compared to the chaos occurring downstream.

From the waterfalls, you will make a detour north into the active Krafla fissure zone. Even the drive into the valley is a sight in itself, feeling like you stepped into a sci-fi movie as you pass through massive silver tubes, steaming exhaust pipes, and geothermal structures built to harness the boiling energy right beneath the Earth's crust.

At the top of the road lies the Víti explosion crater, famous for the turquoise water sitting at the bottom of the volcanic bowl, which contrasts sharply with the barren, deep-red earth surrounding it.

Right nearby, you can hike through the Leirhnjúkur lava field, a hostile landscape formed during eruptions in the late 70s and 80s where the black ground is literally still steaming and warm to the touch.

For an even closer look, you can head back and just alongside the Ring Road to find the Hverir geothermal area. Walking here feels like stepping directly onto Mars, with roaring, hissing steam vents, and boiling mud pools, while surrounded by hills of multi-colored sulfur.

Finally, your route descends into the beautiful basin of Lake Mývatn, where lush green vegetation provides a welcome break from the barren volcanic desert.

Camping: End the day at one of the dedicated campsites right along the shores of Lake Mývatn, such as Bjarg or Vogar. These sites position you beautifully to catch the late-evening sun over the water, providing a peaceful, grassy contrast to the intense volcanic terrain you spent the day exploring.

Tip: Lake Mývatn literally translates to "Midge Lake". In summer these small flies can be annoying so be sure to keep your camper closed and consider getting a head net if you plan on hiking (useful for not losing your sanity)

For the next day you can explore some hikes and trails around Myvatn, such as the "Dark Castles" of Dimmuborgir, a massive maze of towering lava pillars and dramatic rock arches. There are many trails and you can also exit the park and head on to tackle the steady hike up the side of Hverfjall, a massive and perfectly symmetrical black crater. Walking along its giant, open rim rewards you with a 360-degree view of the entire lake and its surrounding, lava-sculpted landscape. Personally, the ascent was quite challenging and the crumbling black rocks made each step a concentrated effort, while the persistent wind constantly pushed me back. The incline was so steep that it consumed my entire field of view, leaving nothing to look at except the relentless slope ahead. My own personal Sisyphus moment.

This is where most of the "classic" loops end with a drive through Akureyri, Icelands second largest town, and then back south to the Capital Region. But we have still more to explore. Much more.

First off is a mandatory stop at Goðafoss - the Waterfall of the Gods. This is also a major tourist stop, easy to reach and with ample parking for buses so try to beat the crowds getting there early. This way you can climb the rocks, walk on the beach and see the waterfall both from the east and west sides in a much more intimate way.

From the waterfall, make your first major stop in Akureyri, Iceland’s charming "Capital of the North." It is the perfect spot to park the campervan and get a bit "back to civilization". You can stroll down the colorful shopping streets, sit in a cozy local café, or walk the scenic coastal promenade. Make sure to look up at the towering Akureyri Church overlooking the town, take a walk through the world’s northernmost botanical gardens (and keep an eye out for the cute city traffic lights where the red stoplight is shaped like a heart).

Leaving Akureyri, head north along Route 76 directly into the dramatic wilderness of the Troll Peninsula. Outside of the completely uninhabited interior Highlands, this peninsula holds the tallest mountain peaks in all of Iceland.

If you skipped whale-watching tours from Reykjavik, or Husavik, Dalvík is also a popular alternative hub for these cruises and they boast a 100% successful rate of encounters.

As you continue north, the coastal road gets increasingly dramatic, hugging the cliffside as it snakes toward Siglufjörður, nestled into a narrow fjord at the northernmost tip of the peninsula. While it was once the booming "Herring Capital of the World", it is now a defunct fishing village but which offers a highly rated Herring Era Museum.

After exploring the northern tip, Route 76 loops around to the western side of the peninsula, bringing you to the tiny village of Hofsós. This town is home to the Hofsós Sundlaug, widely celebrated as one of the most beautifully situated swimming pools on the planet, perched on the edge of the cliff. A short walk just below brings to the Staðarbjörg basalt columns where you can admire the perfectly geometrical wall of volcanic rock.

Campsite: I had really bad weather so spent the day with very few stops and completed the peninsula in a day, and headed inland to spend the night at Varmahlíð Camping.

This campground is a peaceful sanctuary nestled into a protected forest with great facilites and easy walking access to the local geothermal swimming pool.

If, like me, you fell in love with the wonderful coastal roads of the south and Tröllstagi, the often overlooked Westfjords region is another sight to behold. Here the drives are long, winding the coast in and out of the long fjords and your journey times quickly hike up to at least 4 hours daily.

The roads can be rough, gravelly, and exposed, but the reward is total isolation, towering table mountains, hidden hot springs, and empty golden sand beaches that look like they belong in the tropics rather than the edge of the Arctic.

Your first day is all about navigating the relentless, jaw-dropping coastal bends of the northern Westfjords, making way to the capital of the region, Ísafjörður.

Campsite: Tungudalur campsite is tucked into a valley just outside Ísafjörður town and is one of the most comfortable and scenic campgrounds in the country. The site is split into sections by the beautiful Bunárfoss waterfall, which cascades straight down the mountain and winds right through the grass. It is very well sheltered by trees and has great facilities.

The next day you will be conquering the westernmost point of Iceland at Làtrabjarg, in what feels like a journey to the Edge of the World.

What awaits are dramatic vertical cliffs that are a haven for bird nesting and puffin watching. Beware though, the road is rough. Really rough. But not only is that half the fun, but you will also come across incredible vistas, even golden sand beaches that seem impossible to belong there.

On the way you will come across the beached ruin of Garðar BA 64, Iceland's oldest steel ship.

At Làtrabjarg the road ends right before the cliffs, which stretch for 14 kilometers and up to 440 meters highs. These sheer vertical rock walls are a massive haven for millions of nesting sea birds. Làtrabjarg offers the best puffin watching in he country and because the birds have no natural land predators on these cliffs, they are happy to sit just a few feet away from the trails, completely unfazed by visitors presence.

Be careful that there are few pathways here, and no comfortable viewing platforms or protective railings. The grassy ground can be fragile and, as always, Icelandic gusts of wind can blow at any moment, so if you want to peer over the edge of the cliffs, lie flat on your stomach.

Once you have explored the magnificent cliffs, return from the same road and after a few hoursyou will get back on the southern coast. Of course you there is also another waterfall on the way towards Patreksfjordur, at Dynjandi (also known as Fjallfoss).

Campsite: Tracing Route 60 back along the southern coast of the Westfjords is Djúpidalur Campsite. Located in a wide, sweeping valley, this site can get incredibly windy. It's strength however is the massive, heated indoor communal hall packed with cozy sofas and a fully equipped kitchen. It offers also a geothermally heated swimming pool and hot tubs which are a great way to wash off the dust from the rough Westfjords gravel roads.

Contrary to Tröllaskagi and especially the Westfjords, the Snæfellsnes peninsula is often included in traditional Icelandic road trips. It is compact, incredibly beautiful, and frequently called "Iceland in Miniature" because it packs nearly every iconic Icelandic landscape into a single 90-kilometer stretch.

You will also need 2 days here, not because of the distances like the Wesfjords but the sheer density of sights.

Start your journey by exploring the golden sands of Skarðsvík Beach. This spot is a rare anomaly in Iceland, featuring bright golden sand and turquoise water framed by dark volcanic rock, looking like a tropical beach dropped into the Arctic.

From there, your drive takes you past the highly-photographed Ingjaldshóll Church before heading into the fishing village of Ólafsvík, where you can admire the strikingly modern architecture of the Ólafsvík Church, designed to resemble a ship's sail.

Continuing east, make a stop in the neighboring town of Grundarfjörður, the gateway to the ultimate crown jewel of the region: Kirkjufell. This perfectly symmetrical, arrowhead-shaped mountain is the most photographed peak in all of Iceland (and is instantly recognizable to Game of Thrones fans). Park the campervan and walk up to Kirkjufellsfoss, the nearby multi-tiered waterfall, to capture the classic, postcard-perfect shot of the water cascading with the dramatic mountain towering directly in the background.

Further along the northern coast, do not miss the Berserkjahraun lava field, a stunning expanse of 4,000-year-old jagged rock formations covered in thick, green moss. Finally, wrap up your tour of the northern peninsula in the historic town of Stykkishólmur to admire the futuristic Stykkishólmskirkja church, as well as taking a short walk up the Súgandisey basalt island for a panoramic view over the Breiðafjörður bay.

Campsite: End your first day at the western tip of the peninsula at Hellissandur Camping, located right inside the Sandahraun lava field.

Not only is it perfectly positioned halfway through the peninsula but is a highly-rated basecamp that features a modern service house with great facilities. Because it sits right on the edge of the national park, you get completely unobstructed of the giant Snæfellsjökull Glacier on one side and the open North Atlantic Ocean on the other.

The following day, tackle the southern coast, first making a stop at Saxhóll Crater. A convenient iron staircase leads you right to the top of the crater, offering panoramic views of the surrounding lava fields.

As you leave the trail and continue driving west, make sure to pull off at Djúpalónssandur. This is a dramatic black pebbled beach where you can see the rusted remains of a British trawler shipwrecked here scattered across the stones. You can also test your strength on the four historic lifting stones on the beach, which old fishing captains used to measure whether sailors were strong enough for life at sea.

For a cave exploration tour, you can check out Vatnshellir Lava Cave. It is a family-friendly option with easy walks on wooden planks and wonderful lighting (according to reviews, I opted instead for solo spelunking in Búðahellir lava cave on the eastern side of Búðaklettur crater).

Next, make a stop at Lóndrangar. These massive basalt sea stacks look like a giant rocky castle emerging from the ocean, and they are prime spots for bird watching during the summer months.

Afterward, continue to your primary stop at the charming coastal area of Arnarstapi. Park the campervan here to take the spectacular, easy 2.5-kilometer cliffside trail that connects Arnarstapi to the tiny historic village of Hellnar. Walking this path brings you directly past Gatklettur, a famous, naturally eroded stone arch where the sea crashes through a circular hole in the rock.

From there, drive to the iconic sight of Búðir to see the famous Black Church of Búðakirkja. There are several beautiful trails and hikes that start from this area, and it is highly recommended to take the walk to Búðaklettur crater, surrounded by moss-covered lava fields.

To wrap up the route, make a quick stop at Ytri Tunga, a beach where you can often spot seals relaxing on the rocks. Finally, finish the journey with a stop at the famous Gerðuberg Cliffs to admire the massive wall of geometric basalt columns.

Time to head back and close the loop but not before making a detour inland, towards the Borgarfjörður region and the "Silver Circle" (yes, we are doing them all).

After experiencing so many imposing waterfalls and geothermal landscapes, heading inland to explore this historic area is the perfect way to wrap up the trip.

Head to Borgarnes, a lovely coastal town that serves as the gateway to the west. From there, head about an hour inland to visit a pair of spectacular, side-by-side waterfalls that sit right on the same river but offer completely different vibes. The first is Hraunfossar. Rather than a river tumbling over a cliff, Hraunfossar is a series of countless gentle, icy-blue cascades that literally seep out from underneath a massive, moss-covered lava field, pouring directly into the turquoise river below.

Located just a short trail walk upstream is Barnafoss, or the "Children’s Falls." Named after a dark local legend, this narrow, churning rapid stands in dramatic contrast to its neighbor, featuring wild waters that have carved intricate, chaotic shapes out of the dark volcanic rock.

Continue to Deildartunguhver, celebrated as Europe’s most powerful hot spring. You will see towering plumes of steam rising from the landscape long before you arrive, as boiling water gushes out of the earth at an astonishing rate. This natural furnace single-handedly provides the geothermal heating energy for the town of Borgarnes and neighboring communities miles away. If you are in the mood for some pampering, right next to is sits Krauma, a sleek, ultra-modern spa. It harnesses the scalding water from the spring, cooling it down naturally using pure, cold glacial water from a nearby mountain stream.

Campsite: As this is your last day you can either remain in the Borgarfjörður valley or push towards the capital.

• Option A: Húsafell Camping (Stay Inland). Close to Barnafoss, this campsite is incredibly well-equipped and sits in a rare, beautifully wooded birch forest.
• Option B: Mosskógar Camping. Proceed past Reykjavik to Mosskógar Camping in Mosfellsbær. This is an organic farm turned campsite tucked away in a quiet, wind-sheltered grove of trees. It features a fully equipped kitchen (including oils, salt, spices and various ingredients) set inside a greenhouse.

Closing Thoughts

Iceland is another of those places you don't just see; it’s a place you feel.

It felt like New Zealand, in the sense that it's a land that doesn't just offer great vistas and landscapes but where Nature seems to have character and personality and that to speak to you.

Of all the incredible wonders, what I will remember most are simple moments. The early mornings, making coffee while staring at a thousand-year-old glacier, with the drumming soundtrack of the "Horse Cuckoo" Common Snipes homing constantly above in their mating shows. Or the perpetual Golden Hour at night that seems to last forever much like the water plunging down jagged peaks.

I will definitely visit again, next time with a 4x4 vehicle to explore more remote regions and off the beaten tracks of this wonderful and truly wild corner of the world.

Yes, the "Queen of the Mountain" truly is majestic ✨