Many countries are blessed with thriving and unspoilt nature, but the Land of Kiwis has something uniquely special which stirs the soul and ignites the spirit of adventure in all who set foot on its shores.
Exploring New Zealand by road may be one of the best trips ever, revealing why it truly feels like "Middle-earth" from The Lord of the Rings: a landscape from another age. Perhaps even a land taken from fantasy.
Tucked away in the South Pacific Ocean (and often overlooked on world maps) New Zealand is the quintessential remote escape.
Sparsely populated, and as remote as it gets, it's hard to not be awestruck by Aotearoa - "The Land of the Long White Cloud". You’ll find that everyone, from the first Māori to the descendants of European settlers, agrees this is a place to be respected and preserved. As a visitor, you’ll quickly understand why, and feel the magic of this beautiful land.
Only the highest peaks of Zealandia, the ancient, mostly submerged continent, rise above the sea, as if nature had curated its finest and picked the best of the best.
Snow-capped mountains meet lush forests with shades of green that do not seem possible. Dramatic fjords in the south, waterfalls, geothermal vents, underground caves filled with glow worms that seem stars in the night sky. The Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean beat on its coast, while inland livestock peacefully grazes on the shores of tranquil still lakes, the country’s natural beauty is truly unique and awe-inspiring.
Table of Contents
Overview
Type:
campervan/motorhome 🚐
Accommodation:
camping ⛺
Length:
Duration:
Difficulty:
This road trip was supposed to be a full exploration of both islands. However because of delays starting the trip I had to speed through the North Island and concentrate on the arguably more famous and beautiful South Island.
The trip requires at least 3 weeks without considering long camping stops in national parks. I did it over the span of 1 month. Distance-wise it is quite short at 3500 kms but packed to the brim with sights. You will need many many megabytes storage for all the pictures and videos.
It is almost a full exploration of the South Island, along the west coast, all of the southern perimeter, and back inland and northbound on the other side of the Southern Alps ending in Christchurch.
If you opt to skip the southern part and the Fiordlands (although why would you?) it can be shortened considerably.
Here you will all the information you need on driving in New Zealand and some basic country info. Skip ahead to the itinerary for the route and stops, otherwise read on.
About
- Language: English, Māori
- Population: 5,355,620 (May 2024 est.)
- Timezone: UTC +12
- Political System: Parliamentary constitutional monarchy
- Ethic Groups: European 70.2%, Māori 16.5%, Asian 15.1%, other 1.2%
- Religions: No religion 48.2%, 36.5% Christian, 8.3% other
- Currency: New Zealand Dollar ($ – NZD)
- Credit Cards: Credit cards are widely accepted
- Electricity: 230 volt / 50 hertz (AS/NZS 3112)
- Tipping Customs: Not customary
- Haggling Culture: Not common
Getting Around
Motorhome or Car?
Much like Australia, New Zealand is perfect for exploring with a campervan or motorhome. The country is well equipped for this with many campgrounds and holiday parks.
Renting a car will be more expensive considering the additional fee of pickup and returning the vehicle in two cities on opposite ends of the country, which is lower for campervans and motorhomes that naturally are used for this scenario. A car rental will also mean finding hotels, motels, or hostels. It also requires you to eat mostly in restaurants instead of doing grocery shopping and cooking yourself. Since you will most likely be forced to stick to major towns, it also removes the “exploration” factor and the magic hours in the morning when you wake up and watch the wildlife graze around with a hot mug in your hands.
On the other hand, camping brings its own set of challenges and might not be for everyone. Ultimately you are sleeping in a car or tent, and no matter how upscale glamping or holiday park you are staying in or luxury motorhome you have rented, comfort and general hygiene will not be optimal. Finally, the money you will save from accommodation and dining will be partly spent on higher fuel consumption because of the increased weight of the vehicle.
Campervan rental
The main campervan companies in New Zealand are: Britz, Maui, Jucy, Wicked Campers, and Mighty Campers.
My choice was a very flashy but minimal "Wicked Van" from Wicked Campers, basically a Chevrolet van. It was officially self-contained with a portable toilet in the boot, but still in the box packaging and basically intended to never be used but which grants the status of self-contained. It attracted a lot of judgemental stares from older people and many thumbs up from teens. As per tradition, I gave a name to my trusty wheeled companion, this time it was very obviously Barney.
Camping basics
Camping is similar to Australia, meaning that cars cannot be parked anywhere for the night and need to be in designated camping grounds. New Zealand has are a lot of camping grounds, of many price ranges (compared to Australia, on average the quality is also higher and less expensive).
Freedom camping (aka camping in the wild) is also common with many freedom camping spots. As in the case of Australia, freedom camping is allowed only in certain areas and only for self contained vehicles.
Given the nature of the smaller and winding roads, my suggestion is to avoid large motorhomes.
4WD is also not necessary given the quality of the roads. At most you will encounter short gravel roads that simply need to be taken at slower speed.
You can use apps like campermate, thl, or iOverlander to check the available campong grounds, oR
Make sure to download all the relative camping apps to find camping spots, and places where fires are allowed or not (as well as wildfire alerts). Google maps can already give an indication of the camping grounds but specialized apps such as iOverlander, campermate (apple download, android download), THL (apple download, android download) will give more information on the amenities and you can also pre-book a site. Also the official DOC (Department of Conservation) website
Driving
First and foremost, the basics: in New Zealand, driving is on the left side of the road with the steering wheel on the right. So overtaking is done on the right.
All common driving requirements of developed countries are followed (i.e., mandatory seatbelts, it is illegal to drive under the influence, and the driving legal age is 18).
An IDP is not required to drive in New Zealand. That being said, a general rule is that the license must always use the characters that are used in the country, so if your drivers license is written with Chinese, Arabic, Cyrillic, or others you will need to an IDP.
Roundabouts are clockwise, with way given to those already in the roundabout (so to the right). Otherwise way is given to cars coming from the left.
In some countries, you may turn left at a red traffic light (or right depending on traffic direction, anyways turn without crossing a lane). In New Zealand, this is not permitted and drivers must wait for a green light.
Speed limits
Speed limits vary considerably but the most common are 50 km/h in urban areas, and 100 km/h on highways. In rural areas limits range between 60 – 100 km/h.
Travel times are much longer than what would be expected for the relatively short distance when measuring in pure kilometers. When planning your journey account for the high number of road works that you will surely encounter, and the hilly nature of the country leading to winding roads (as well as all the stops you will make to take pictures and enjoy the scenery).
Roads
Road conditions in New Zealand are excellent. There is an extremely high number of road works being done anywhere so it is common to find sections of roads with temporary one-way traffic, or reduced speed limits. It almost seems like the entire population is employed in road maintenance.
Do not expect to find giant multi-lane highways. Roads are almost always (twisting) double lane and the country experiences a lot of climate variability through seasons so the effects of rain, ice, and heat can impact the road conditions.
There are a lot of one-lane bridges. Be careful when you encounter these as obviously cars already crossing on the bridge need to pass first. Otherwise there are signs which indicate which side of the road has priority.
Toll roads
There are only 3 toll roads, all located on the North Island, which are:
- Tauranga Eastern Link Toll Road
- Northern Gateway Toll Road
- Takitimu Drive Toll Road
Toll payment is done electronically and you can pay online at www.tollroad.govt.nz
Scenic Roads
Roads in New Zealand are simply something else. Much like Switzerland, the country prides itself on its road infrastructure. They are few, the country is small and mountainous, and they are amazing. Nowhere else in the world will you find so many scenic roads in such small an area.
The "mandatory" scenic roads to traverse in this road trip are:
- The Haast Pass, which winds through Mt Aspiring National Park and connects Haast and Wanaka, coasting lake Wanaka and lake Hawea. Be prepared for this one as you will need full battery and an empty memory card on your camera.
- Queenstown to Glenorchy coasting lake Wakatipu. A joy to drive through with several stops along the way to take in the scenery.
- The entire drive from Te Anau towards Milford Sound through the Fiordland National Park. If you travel with a campervan or motorhome, stopping in one of the many campgrounds is best so you split the journey and not get overloaded from the natural wonders.
- Queen Charlotte Scenic Road from Havelock to Picton, a short and winding road with views of Marlborough Sounds.
- The Crown Range Scenic Road connecting Queenstown and Wanaka and reaching an elevation of 1,1120 mt.
- Lindis Pass connecting the towns of Omarama and Tarras between Wanaka and Twizel. Another mountain pass within the Southern Alps. The summit offers panoramic view of the valley framed by mountains, with the road being the only sign of civilization.
- Arthur's Pass connecting Greymouth and Christchurch and cutting through the central mountain ranges of the South Island (not included in this itinerary)
- The scenic drive from Twizel to Mount Cook National Park is a highlight of any visit to New Zealand's South Island offering picture perfect views of the crystal clear lake and towering Aoraki in the distance.
- The Great Coast Road from Greymouth to Westport on the South Island's west coast offering breathtaking vistas, and awe-inspiring lookouts.
- In the North Island, the Forgotten World Highway between Stratford and Taumarunuii (not included in this itinerary)
Fuel
Fuel is quite expensive and fuel amounts are measured in cents so the dials will turn pretty quickly.
Petrol stations are evenly spread out and easy to come by. However, given the low population density and large expanses without major cities, always calculate your mileage and distances conservatively to avoid finding yourself empty in the middle of nowhere.
Wildlife & Roadkill
The natural beauty of New Zealand can be seen on the road and it is common to encounter livestock peacefully strolling, mostly herds of sheep. Obviously cars do not have priority over animals (sheep and cattle have not been taught yet to let cars pass). Slow down and be careful accounting for the unpredictable nature of the animals. More often than not sheep will be scared away and move en masse away from the road once one notices you approaching.
Given the large biodiversity of the country, wildlife roadkill is unfortunately more common than in other developed countries. This amount to small animals such as possums, rabbits and small birds. Be especially careful for flightless birds that are quite slow on foot such as the kākāpō, weka, and iconic kiwi.
Driving etiquette
Generally Kiwis drive carefully and are easy going and respectful of other drivers. There also isn’t an obsession with sticking to the speed limit, without it leading to reckless driving.
Since roads often only have one lane in each direction, and there aren’t many possiblities to overtake (unlike, say, in Mexico where cars stick to the sides, creating a third unofficial passing lane in the center). In New Zealand instead, overtaking is managed through Slow Vehicle Bays and sections of the road with passing lanes. Passing lanes are quite short but are indicated well in advance so you can prepare to either overtake or move to the left to let cars pass by.
General Info & Tips
Safety
New Zealand is very safe and the little crime that exists amounts to petty theft and bag snatching in large cities.
Natural risks: Given that the country sits on the Ring of Fire, the natural risks amount to earthquakes and volcanic activities.
Emergencies number: 111 unique emergencies number (also 911, 999)
Safety Indices
Seasons & Best Time to Visit
New Zealand has a climate which is very varied because of the influence by both the ocean and mountainous terrain. The country experiences four distinct seasons – summer, autumn, winter, and spring (clearly inverted with respect to the northern hemisphere) – but each season can be experienced differently depending on the region and altitude.
The North Island has a subtropical climate with warm, humid summers and mild winters. The central and southern regions of the North Island have a temperate climate, with moderate rainfall and temperatures that can fluctuate throughout the year.
The South Island, on the other hand, experiences a more temperate to cold climate, especially in the mountainous regions where snowfall is common in winter. Obviously the further you move south, the more harsh the weather becomes, with Fiordland and the Catlins being quite cold.
Entry Requirements
With the exception of Australia and New Zealand citizens (which include inhabitant of Cook Islands, Tokelau and Niue), everyone entering the country needs to apply for the New Zealand electronic travel authorisation (NZeTA). Get yours here at the official New Zealand Immigration website
Input your passport citizenship and quickly see the requirements that apply to you:
Frequently Asked Questions
How much time do I need for a New Zealand North and South Island road trip?
To cover both islands comfortably, we recommend a minimum of 21 to 28 days.
North Island (7–10 days): Best for geothermal wonders (Rotorua), beaches (Coromandel), and Māori culture.
South Island (14–18 days): Requires more time for the extensive loop covering the Southern Alps, Milford Sound, and the wild West Coast.What are the "must-see" stops on a South Island loop?
Sights that can't be missed include:
- Lake Tekapo & Pukaki: Famous for turquoise water and the Church of the Good Shepherd.
- Aoraki/Mount Cook: The Hookers Valley Track is a must-do hike.
- Queenstown & Wanaka: The adventure capitals for bungy jumping or the "Roys Peak" hike.
- Milford Sound: Book a cruise in advance; it’s the "Eighth Wonder of the World."
- The West Coast (Hokitika & Punakaiki): Home to the Pancake Rocks and blue glaciers.
- Abel Tasman National Park: Golden beaches and coastal kayaking at the top of the island.When is the best time of year to visit New Zealand?
The "sweet spot" is Autumn (March to May).
Why Autumn? The weather is stable, the summer crowds have left, and the South Island's colors (especially in Wanaka and Arrowtown) are world-class.
Summer (December–February): Best weather but very crowded; campsites must be booked months in advance.
Winter (June–August): Great for skiers, but be prepared to carry snow chains for mountain passes like Lindis Pass or the Crown Range.What is the "Green Warrant" and do I need a self-contained van?
As of June 7, 2026, the old "blue sticker" system has been fully replaced. To "Freedom Camp" (camp on public land for free), your van must have a Green Warrant sticker. This signifies the van has a fixed toilet and meets strict environment-protection standards.
How do I get my campervan between the North and South Islands?
You will take the ferry across the Cook Strait (between Wellington and Picton).
Booking: Use either Interislander or Bluebridge. In 2026, it is essential to book 2–4 months in advance, especially if you have a large motorhome, as vehicle spaces fill up fast.
The Experience: It is a 3.5-hour journey and is often called one of the most beautiful ferry rides in the world. Turn your gas bottles off before boarding!How much does fuel and camping cost in 2026?
Fuel: Most campervans run on Diesel. In 2026, expect to pay around $2.00–$2.30 NZD per litre. Note that Diesel vehicles also pay a Road User Charge (RUC)—check if your rental company includes this or charges it at the end.
Camping:
-Freedom Camping: Free (if Green Warrant certified).
-DOC Campsites: $10–$20 per person (stunning, natural locations).
-Holiday Parks: $50–$90 (full facilities, power, and hot showers).
check out this article on the best overnight stops and camping apps
Itinerary
With all that said and done, let’s move on to the itinerary.
A note on the stops
Contrary to other posts where I break up the journey into relatively equal segments of at most 3,4 hour drives, the trip legs that I list here are indicative to say the least.
For example there are separate entries for Lake Hawea and Lake Wanaka, two lakes that literally face each other, or Rakaia Gorge and Christchurch, where the distance is only 40 km.
Contrarily I put only one entry for the trip leg between Milford Sound to Dunedin through the Catlins, which covers the entire southern coast of the island and should be done in multiple days.
New Zealand rewards the unhurried and the curious. Take your time and do not worry about reaching a specific destination. There will always be campgrounds/holiday parks, fuel stations, and tons of beautiful stops.
Drive Times Overview
| Route Segment | Distance (Approx.) | Est. Drive Time | Recommended Stops & Deviations |
| Auckland to Taupō | 275 km | 3.5 Hours | Hobbiton (Matamata detour), Waitomo Caves, Blue Springs (Putaruru) |
| Taupō to Wellington | 375 km | 5.0 Hours | Huka Falls, Tongariro NP (Mt Doom), Taihape (Gumboot Capital) |
| Picton to Punakaiki | 330 km | 4.5 Hours | Marlborough Sounds, Nelson, Buller Gorge, Pancake Rocks |
| Punakaiki to Franz Josef | 220 km | 3.0 Hours | Greymouth, Hokitika Gorge (Electric blue water), Lake Mahinapua |
| Franz Josef to Wānaka | 285 km | 4.0 Hours | Lake Matheson (Reflections), Blue Pools, Haast Pass, Lake Hāwea |
| Wānaka to Queenstown | 70 km | 1.5 Hours | Crown Range Road (Cardrona Hotel), Arrowtown, Roaring Meg |
| Queenstown Scenic Loop | 90 km (RT) | 1.5 Hours | Glenorchy Scenic Road, Bennett's Bluff, Paradise (LOTR film site) |
| Queenstown to Te Anau | 175 km | 2.5 Hours | Devil’s Staircase, Kingston (The Kingston Flyer), Lake Manapouri |
| Te Anau to Milford Sound | 120 km | 2.0 Hours* | Mirror Lakes, Homer Tunnel, Eglinton Valley, Chasm Walk |
| Te Anau to Dunedin | 400 km | 6.0 Hours | The Catlins (Curio Bay, Nugget Point, Purakaunui Falls) |
| Dunedin to Lake Tekapo | 300 km | 4.0 Hours | Moeraki Boulders, Oamaru (Blue Penguins), Cromwell (Fruit stalls) |
| Tekapo to Christchurch | 230 km | 3.0 Hours | Lake Pukaki (Mt Cook view), Rakaia Gorge, Fairlie (Famous pies) |
Start: Auckland
Auckland (Tāmaki Makaurau), is New Zealand’s largest and most multicultural city, set between the Waitematā and Manukau Harbours on the North Island. Nicknamed the City of Sails, it’s known for its vibrant waterfront, thriving food and arts scenes, and iconic Sky Tower. The city sits atop a volcanic field, with cones like Mt Eden offering panoramic views. Beaches, native bush, and islands such as Waiheke and Rangitoto are all within easy reach.
Popular things to do and see
Sky Tower, Museum of Transport and Technology (MOTAT), Auckland Art Gallery, Mount Eden, Kelly Tarlton's Sea Life Aquarium, waterfront strolls at Tāmaki Drive promenade, Viaduct Harbour, Wynyard Quarter, and Britomart
(North Island Stops & Itinerary)
As mentioned earlier I had to speed through the North Island, missing basically everything that it has to offer. Below are popular stops and sights that I wanted to do originally, and a tentative route (which, again, I didn't do, so cannot say if it is doable)
- For some beach destinations and nature escape Waiheke Island facing Auckland, Muriwai Beach, and the famous Cathedral Cove in Waikato Region.
- Before Taupo, Rotorua famous for its thermal springs (Champagne Pool being the most popular)
- Between Hamilton and Rotorua, near Matamata you can still the the "Shire" from Lord of the Rings at the Hobbiton Movie Set.
- Tongariro national park is a must-see and hiking lovers cannot skip the multi-day climb of Mount Ruapehu (Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings movie) and the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.
- Raglan on the western coast known for its black-sand Ngarunui Beach and the long surf break at Manu Bay.
- The Waitomo caves are famous for its glowworms (which can also be seen south in Te Anau in the South Island, included in this itinerary).
- On the western side the Forgotten World Highway between Stratford and Taumarunuii which ends at Mount Taranaki and the famous Pouakai Crossing in Egmont National Park.
Taupō
So I rushed through everything but could not skip half a day in Taupō - the North Island's lakefront hub. Lake Taupō is New Zealand's largest lake filling a large volcanic caldera. Here await thunderous waterfalls and geothermal like Huka Falls and Craters of the Moon as well as all the possible aquatic sports.
Drive distance: 270 km (~3h)
Popular things to do and see
Huka Falls, Taupo Bungy, Rainbow Springs Nature Park, Lava Glass, Wairakei Terraces hot pools, Craters of the Moon, Lake Taupō waterfront and Great Lake Pathway, Orakei Korako (short ferry ride), Mount Tauhara summit track
Marlborough Sounds
Time to enter the magnificent South Island.
First dedicate some time to the compact capital of Wellington (Te Whanganui-a-Tara) either enjoying its museums, or food and coffee places, or taking the cablecar to the hilltop view.
Board the ferry that crosses the Cook Strait. Already here you will get a glimpse of the beauty of the South Island as even the ferry ride through Marlborough Sounds will empty your camera battery. See the Brothers lighthouse, the entrance to Tory Channel, and the approach to Picton. Be sure to keep and eye out for doplhins and seals.
After the 3 hour cruise, disembark in the laid-back port town of Picton (Waitohi) and either stop for the night, enjoying the foreshore strolls, or hop on and off water taxis for short walks on the Queen Charlotte Track, or kayaking to sheltered coves and bays.
Alternatively continue to Nelson passing Havelock and through the short but beautiful Queen Charlotte scenic drive.
Drive distance: 370km (~5h)
Popular things to do and see
Wellington: Te Papa Museum, Wellington Zoo, Mount Victoria Lookout, Wellington Cable Car, Botanic garden, Cuba Street and Hannahs Laneway, Red Rocks/Ōwhiro Bay coastal walk
Picton: Queen Charlotte Track, EcoWorld Aquarium & Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre, Picton Museum
Marlborough Sounds, Queen Charlotte Sound
Punakaiki
Consider spending multiple days in Abel Tasman National Park, one of the many natural jewels of the South Island. The next route leg will be along the western coast.
All roads in New Zealand are scenic, but this is officially the Great Coast Road. Stop at Punakaiki to take a short walk along the coast to see the Pancake Rocks with its microlayers of limestone rock cliffs perched on the coast. Behind you is the gateway to the lush Paparoa National Park.
I split this leg with a stop at Maruia Falls public campground, a quiet rest area just off the road with the refreshing waterfall behind and many curious weka birds.
Drive distance: 370km, (5h)
Popular things to do and see
Along the way: Abel Tasman National Park, Nelson Lakes National Park, Nelson Provincial Museum, Tahunanui Beach, Kahurangi National Park, Paparoa National Park
Punakaiki: Pancake Rocks and Blowholes, Truman Track Walk, Pororari River Track, Underworld Adventures, Punakaiki Coastal Track
Franz Joseph Glacier
Don't worry the landscapes get more and more dramatic. Proceed along the Great Coast Road to Greymouth (Māwhera), at the mouth of the Grey River. Here you can enjoy rugged beaches, and short coastal and forest walks.
Stop for a dip or picnic (or even camp for the night at the campsite) at Lake Ianthe for perfect reflections on the electric blue lake.
Continue south into glacier country, with Franz Joseph Glacier being the main attraction.
Tragically, like many other glaciers in the world, it has retreated considerably in only a few decades. Nowadays the best way to visit is said to be with a helicopter tour that takes you and even lands on the glacier itself. From the road it can be seen in the distance after a short but always enjoyable walk from the carpark.
Drive distance: 220km, ~3h
Popular things to do and see
Along the way: Shantytown Heritage Park, West Coast Treetop Walk, Hokitika Gorge Walk, Lake Mapourika, Westland Tai Poutini National Park
Greymouth: Point Elizabeth Walkway, Greymouth Floodwall Walk, Shantytown Heritage Park
Franz Joseph Glacier: Waiho Hot Pools, Glacier Access Road Walk, Helicopter tours
Lake Matheson
Nearby Franz Jospeh is Fox Glacier and Lake Matheson. There are several trails of increasing length which all reward visitors with beatiful views of the tranquil lake reflecting the mountain range of Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. You will be inside a rain forest and here was where I realized that green in New Zealand is simply something else. We are talking about absolute, RGB (0, 255, 0), green
Drive distance: 30kms, 30 minutes
Popular things to do and see
Lake Matheson walkway, Lake Matheson Loop Track to Jetty Viewpoint and View of Views, view of Fox Glacier, Gillespies Beach
Blue Pools
The following leg includes the Haast Pass, possibly the most spectacular road in the country, which says a lot.
Take your time and enjoy the quick stops and short walks to Truman, Fantail, and Thunder Creek waterfalls.
Stop also at the Blue Pools near Makarora in Mount Aspiring National Park where spring-fed, glacial waters gather in deep sapphire basins beneath swing bridges. The Blue Pools Track is a short 1-1.5 hours walk ending in refreshing dip in the pools
Drive distance: 200km, ~3h
Popular things to do and see
Along the way: Bruce Bay, Haast Pass Lookout, Truman, Fantail, and Thunder Creek Falls along Hast Pass
Blue Pools Track
Lake Hāwea
Proceed along the Haast Pass towards Lake Hāwea, Lake Wānaka’s quieter alpine twin. The road is beautiful coasting lake Wanaka and crossing the Neck where the two lakes meet.
I never say where to stop or suggest any accommodation but here I must say it: stop for the night in Kidds Bush Campground. In the picture above its on the left side at the end of the small road right on the lake. The free campground is magnificent and includes water (non-drinkable) and portable toilets. You can camp straight on the lake shores or deeper in the bushes. Golden hour is simpoly magnificent here. Even just watching the herds of sheep grazing is a wonderful experience.
Drive distance: 50km, ~1h
Popular things to do and see
Arusha Central Market, Natural History Museum, Maasai Market, Cultural Heritage Centre
Lake Wanaka
Be sure to thoroughly explore Lake Hawea, with swims, SUP or kayaking, hiking trails, or even just driving along the coast all day before heading to the nearby Lake Wānaka. Here you can base yourself in the town of Wanaka, famous for its iconic lone tree.
You can take water taxi tours to explore the lake like Ruby Island or Mou Waho Island (with its "lake on an island in a lake").
There are several tracks of varying length and diffulty such as the easy lakeside Waterfall Creek, Glendhu Bay tracks, the track to Albert Town, or longer hikes such as the Roys Peak track,and Diamond Lake & Rocky Mountain Track.
All of this centeral region encompassing north Otago and south Canterbury is known for its dark skies and is one of the best places in the world for stargazing (the nearby Lake Tekapo which will be visited much later is the most famous place)
Drive distance: 15km, 15 minutes
Popular things to do and see
Arusha Central Market, Natural History Museum, Maasai Market, Cultural Heritage Centre
Queenstown
In case it wasn't already obvious, every time you enter the car to move from one place to another, you will come across a scenic road. The drive towards Queensland, New Zealand's adventure capital, takes you across the Crown Range, the highest altitude road in the country. Vast expansive views of the town below and of course a winding road leading to a lake.
In Queensland there are several adrenaline attractions such as the Skyline gondola to Bob’s Peak where there are luge rides, and paragliding launches, or Kawarau/Nevis bungy and swing. Also here easy walking tracks like the Moke Lake or Lake Hayes loop tracks. For more laid back vibes there are wine tastings in the nearby vineyards, the historic Arrowtown, or simply stayng in town and strolling through Queenstown gardens and chilling in one of the lakefront bars and restaurants.
Drive distance: 75km, ~1h
Popular things to do and see
Along the way: Crown Range Road Scenic Lookout
Queenstown: Skyline Gondola and Luge, Kiwi Birdlife Park, Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown Gardens
Glenorchy Scenic Road
Before heading to the highlight of the South Island be sure to head west towards Glenorchy and drive through yet another of New Zealand's great scenic drives. The Queenstown-Glenorchy road traces Lake Wakatipu’s edge and ultimately leads you to the aptly named Paradise.
It's a "dead end" road for this itinerary and from Glenorchy you will have to go back to Queenstown to proceed to Te Anau, but the drive and scenery are well worth the detour as it's possibly one of the most spectacular scenic routes you will ever see. Take your time and enjoy the stops on the road at Wilson Bay, Bob’s Cove, and Bennett’s Bluff Lookout.
Drive distance: 50km, 40 minutes
Popular things to do and see
Lake Wakatipu, Glenorchy Animal Experience, Glenorchy Walkway, Paradise Trust
Fiordlands
From Queenstown head south to Te Anau, gateway to the Fiordlands National Park. If, like me, you raced through the North Island and skipped the famous Waitomo caves, you will have a chance to see glowworms also here. It is a short ferry ride to the other side of the lake, followed by a boat tour in complete darkness within the caves that is lit up by the glow worms like stars in a dark sky (try to ignore the fact that the "glow" are secretions of worms hanging from the ceiling, it takes away much of the poetry and drama).
Drive distance: 240km
After having spent time in Te Anau, embark on the highlight of the South Island towards Milford Sound. If you have rented a campervan or motorhome, split the journey and spend the night in one of the many free campgrounds on the road (Henry Creek by Lake Te Anau, Deer Flat in Eglinton Valley, Cascade Creek by Lake Gunn, and more).
Here you are totally immersed in nature, with river streams, reflecting lake pools, vast valleys framed by toweiring rocks, and as always green, green, green.
Popular things to do and see
Along the way: Routeburn Track, Key Summit Track
Te Anau: Glowworm Caves, Te Anau Bird Sanctuary, Lake Te Anau, Ivon Wilson Scenic Reserve,
The Milford Road
Milford or Doubtful?
Doubtful Sound is quieter and larger but there are no roads leading to it and requires an organized tour. Usually from Manapouri, south of Te Anau, it involves a cruise across Lake Manapouri, followed by a stagecoach and finally the actual cruise. It's a longer trip amounting to 12 hours and can also be done overnight.
Milford Sound is more popular and crowded, but can be reached by car. Being this a road trip, the choice was obvious.
Milford Sound
Milford Sound (Piopiotahi) is THE most popular attraction on the South Island. Wake up early to avoid traffic on the road and enjoy the rest of the scenic road and the Homer Tunnel.
The cruise that traverses the glacier-carved fiord lasts around 2 hours and you will be bombarded with sights of glistening waterfalls, seals colonies, dolphins, sheer rock walls, and the sight of the roaring Tasman Sea in the distance.
Be sure to pack rain gear as in this region it rains more than half the year and is one of the wettest places on Earth. The weather should not discourage you though as it fills the waterfalls creating an even more moody and dramatic scenery. I was extremely lucky (or unlucky) to see it on a rare clear sky day. Also dress in layers becuase of the early morning cold and dampness, and bring insect repellent against the sandflies.
Popular things to do and see
Along the way: The Milford Road, Homer Tunnel, The Chasm Walk
Milford Sound Cruise
Catlins & Dunedin
Return to Te Anau (perhaps stopping again in one of the beautiful campgrounds on the way back) and head south towards Riverton and Invercargill.
You are now in the Catlins, the wild, wind-sculpted, southen coast. Head to Slope Point were trees are bent almost 45 degrees from the battering winds to have an idea of the primal beauty of the region. To escape the crashing waves head to Curio Bay and Porpoise Bay and walk through the Jurassic-era petrified forest. This is also a wildlife haven with penguins, sea lions, and dolphons sightings being common.
Proceed along the coasting road making stops at every detour you encounter to see Purakaunui Falls, McLean Falls, and Matai/Horseshoe Falls, Nugget Point, Tautuku Bay, Kaka Point, teh Cathedral Caves, Cannibal Bay, Jack’s Bay, Waipapa Point Lighthouse
After having thoroughly enjoyed the wilderness, head back to civilization going north to the city of Dunedin (home of the steepest road in the world)
Drive distance: 555km, ~7h
Popular things to do and see
Along the way: Lake Manapouri, Clifden Suspension Bridge, Nugget Point Lighthouse, Tunnel Beach Track walk, Waipapa Point Lighthouse, Slope Point, Curio Bay, Curio Bay Penguin Habitat, Curio Bay Fossilised Trees, Porpoise Bay.
Dunedin: The Royal Albatross Centre, Dunedin Railway Station, Otago Museum, Larnach Castle, Baldwin Street
Cromwell
From Dunedin you can either proceeed north along the east coast, but there is a lot of the central Otago that we have missed. Return towards the center towards Cromwell which is a good stop to enjoy the wineries and farmlands. Alternatively return to Queenstown which is only 30 kms away.
Also, as usual now, prepare yourself for yet another jaw-dropping scenic drive.
Drive distance: 220km, ~3h
Popular things to do and see
Along the way: Moeraki Boulders
Cromwell: Lake Dunstan, Goldfields Mining Centre, wineries
Lakes Pukaiki & Tekapo
We are basically back to Wanaka but on the other side of
Drive through the Lindis Pass until you reach Lake Pukaiki. We are basically back to the first stops on the South Island, except on the other side of the Southern Alps.
Lake Pukaiki is where you can take the picture perfect snapshot of New Zealand, with the vast electric blue still lake and view of Aoraki in the distance.
Check out also the Pines, one of the best free campgrounds in the country, right on the lake shore (it is very popular and gets crowded fast, it also may get windy).
In lake Tekapo take stroll on the lakefront footbridge to the Church of the Good Shepherd perched on the lake.
Here is also the area of the Dark Sky Reserve, one of the best spots in the world for stargazing at night.
Drive distance: 170km, ~2h
Popular things to do and see
Along the way: Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park, Lindis Pass
Twizel: Ohau Snow Fields, Lake Ruataniwha, Lake Pukaki, Mackenzie Basin
Lake Tekapo: Church of the Good Shepherd, Lake Tekapo Hot Springs
Rakaia Gorge
The final leg will be on straight roads leading to the city of Christchurch, yet still scenic as all roads are. On the way, Rakaia Gorge slices a bright turquoise path between the Canterbury Plains and the Southern Alps.
This can be a quick pull-off in the picnic area or a longer stop with a walk along the Rakaia Gorge Walkway.
If you have time consider a detour to Mt Hutt or an even longer trip (2h) back inland towards the Arthur’s Pass National Park for alpine scenery. This way you will have also covered the Arthur Pass road completing your collection of the South Island greatest scenic roads .
Drive distance: 160km, ~2h
Christchurch
Christchurch is the final stop of this amazing road adventure. Much like Queenstown, the city is immersed in green and turquoise lakes.
Enjoy the Christchurch Botanic Gardens and Hagley Park, the strolls along the Avon River. For culture, Christchurch Art Gallery, Tūranga central library, Canterbury Museum
Or just indulge in food and drinks at the Riverside Market and The Terrace.
Drive distance: 60km, 45 minutes
Popular things to do and see
Christchurch Botanic Gardens, International Antarctic Centre, Orana Wildlife Park Canterbury Museum
Closing Thoughts
Possibly the most beautiful road trip ever taken. It is less about checking sights off a list and more about how the landscapes change around you. Aotearoa rewards the unhurried, the curious, and anyone willing to pull over and take a detour following it's beauty, in what feels like a greatest-hits album in Nature's playlist.
Forget the iconic "Americana" Route 66, the Canadian Icefields Parkway, Iceland's Ring Road, Australia's Great Ocean Road, or even my favorite Yucatan Peninsula loop, New Zealand is the true road trip heaven. Actually, Middle Earth might very well be heaven itself.
